Thursday 12 October 2017

Sewing Tools Part 1 - Measuring

A dear friend suggested that I do some posts on sewing tools.  It struck me as an excellent idea!  Some of these little gadgets I'd be totally lost without and others I use infrequently, but am grateful for them when that time arises.  So let's start with measuring tools.

Cloth Tape Measure

Now this one is absolutely vital!  If you're planning on sewing clothes, you need accurate measurements!  Since I also do pattern testing, I even take my measurements before the beginning of each test.  It's a little disheartening - but definitely necessary!  These days, tailoring tape measures are generally made of a fibreglass material which resists stretching.  Just out of curiosity, I tested my tapes against a hard aluminum ruler and my cutting mat and was surprised to find that over 36", they were out!  One was 1/4" short and the other was 1/4" long! This probably wouldn't make much difference in a waist or bust measurement, but if you're gauging accuracy in a 1" square on a .pdf pattern, it would probably be better to use an inflexible measurement tool.

Rulers

There are times when you really need a straight edge and hard rulers are what you reach for.  The one I use most frequently is a quilting ruler 6" wide and 24" long.  Perfect for cutting cuffs and neckbands!  It also does double duty as a pattern weight on my cutting mat.  I have it secured to the bulletin board above my sewing counter within easy reach - a necessity as I use it every day.  A 6" plastic ruler and 36" aluminum ruler complete my collection.  Sometimes you need just a little ruler with both metric and imperial measurements and the 6" ruler fills that need.  If I need to cut bands longer than 24", or accurately cut a straight edge to a wide piece of fabric, the 36" ruler is invaluable. These last two items aren't used in my sewing room very often, but there are times when nothing else will do.

Seam Gauge and Hemming Gauge

The seam gauge is another tool I use constantly.  I use it for everything from marking hems to gauging the distance from stitching lines on my machines.  This tool is a definite necessity in my sewing room!  When I was searching out measuring tools for this post, I stumbled upon my old hemming gauge which I haven't been using, but checking out the various markings on it, I can see I should try it again - especially for those curved hems.  It has curved hem markings from 1/4" all the way up to 2 1/2" and can be used with an iron because it's made of aluminum.

Cutting Mat

My final measurement tool is my cutting mat and this one is a definite necessity!  Nearly all of my pattern cutting these days is done on a self-healing cutting mat with a rotary cutter.  So much easier and gentler on these aging hands!  I have 3 cutting mats - a small one by the sewing machine and 2 big 24"x36" ones for my cutting table.  The small one gets used for everything from cutting a quick cuff to providing a hard surface on my ironing board so that I can pin something in place.  The big cutting mats I simply couldn't sew without these days and their clear markings make sure that my straight edges are accurate.

Now there are definitely lots more specialized measuring tools, but these are the ones I find most handy.  In future posts, I'll explore tools for cutting, pressing and those accessories that defy categorization.  Stay tuned!

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