Border Prints!

Profiled Pattern - Love Notions' La Bella Donna (with a couple of alterations!)
Skill Rating - Beginner
Fabric - l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - matching patterns, scrap busting

I think the thing I love the most about being able to sew clothes is that my finished garment is something unique that no one else has.  Border prints just step this up quite a few notches.

Knit border prints are not that easy to find, but l'oiseau fabrics in Calgary, Alberta stock some amazing ones.  Nearly all of their fabric comes from Europe and I find them irresistible.  Every now and then I'll see a post on their Facebook page in which someone loves a border print but has no idea what to do with it!  Hopefully I can give you a few ideas.

Many patterns can be adapted for a border print.  Basically you need a straight edge and most often the bottom hem is the logical place for a border print to sit.  If the pattern doesn't have that, it might be a simple matter to create the edge you need.  A lot of border prints run up the sides of the fabric.  As most of these fabrics have a 4-way stretch, it's not usually a problem cutting against the grain, but it's something to watch out for.

The fabric I used for the La Bella Donna is a cotton/spandex knit called Tumbler and appears as repeats during the fabric's length, so I had to choose a pattern that wasn't any longer than about 30"

The LBD (as La Bella Donna is affectionately known) is a super simple pattern - dolman sleeves and fairly straight body.  It took me all of an hour and a half from start to finish!  I did make a few changes.  I took the curve out of the hem.  I drew in a straight hem about an inch under the line on the pattern for adding a band.

I also borrowed the neckline from the Laundry Day Tee (which is free if you join the Love Notions Facebook Group).  It was a simple matter to put another piece of paper under the pattern piece, tape it in place and draw in the new neckline.

When it comes to cutting out the pieces, it's important that you pay attention to the lines of the border print - much as you would a plaid or striped fabric.  You want the pattern of the fabric to line up at the seams.  To make sure I get this right, I'll make a mark on the pattern piece and when I cut the piece that corresponds to this one, I'll make sure that the mark hits the border print at exactly the same spot. I also made sure to cut the neckband and sleeve cuffs from the border print to tie the tee together.

There are lots of other Love Notions patterns that will lend themselves to border prints.  The above is Rue des Artistes, which I used when I tested the Terra Tunic.  I made the front and back hems the same level to accommodate the design.  This amazing fabric had stumped purchasers for a while and when I saw a number of potential garments, I snapped up all that remained at l'oiseau fabrics in the colour.

This one is the Girls La Bella Donna - a perfect canvas for the fabric.

The Sun Kissed Tee and Gloria from Peek A Boo Patterns were used in the above 2 dresses.  The second dress used a fabric called Enchanted Forest.

And then there are panels - and I guess the Tumbler I used for my LBD is technically a panel.  They are sold in repeat lengths.  l'oiseau had an amazing one called Rose Dawn.  Two sections made the above one-of-a-kind cardigan for my daughter.

And of course you must never discard any usable pieces of a border print!  Scraps from Rose Dawn made a very striking outfit for my granddaughter.

And all those curly side pieces that cotton/spandex knits produce - I save them, too!  They make wonderful plant ties for the garden and unique ribbons for tying up presents!

So never be intimidated by a border print - there are some amazing ones out there that will make you a unique, one-of-a-kind garment.  And just a tiny bit of imagination will get you there!  Here are some other Love Notions patterns that would lend themselves to a knit border print:

Sybil Illusion Skirt Collection - pencil and pleated skirts
Boyfriend Cardigan for Ladies
Ladies Hip Hop Tank & Tee
Origami Tunic & Cardigan for Ladies
Tabitha Top
Tessa Sheath Dress

Why not take the plunge and give it a try yourself!  And if you're looking for some wonderful border prints, do check out l'oiseau fabrics!

The Rhapsody Blouse

Pattern - Love Notions' Rhapsody Blouse
Skill Rating - Intermediate
Fabric - Rayon from Fabricland
Skills - French seams, bias tape making, burrito method for yokes.
Pattern links and videos - Bias binding, burrito method for yokes, hemming with a narrow hemming foot.

When Tami Meyer announced that she was going to test with a woven blouse, I knew I wanted that pattern and lucky for me I was chosen to be a tester!  I wanted a loose woven blouse for the summer heat and the design that Tami posted looked perfect.  But as a staunch member of the "Bat Wing Brigade" I had to have sleeves! Now if there's one thing that Love Notions patterns have, it's lots of options and that usually means lots of sleeve choices.  The Rhapsody Blouse has 8 - sleeveless, cap, short, flutter, 3/4, 3/4 with flare, bishop and trumpet - you certainly get your money's worth with a Love Notions pattern!

I chose the 3/4 sleeve which has a cuff.  The body and sleeves are nice and loose, which is perfect for hot weather - and my "experienced" body! The lines of this garment are flattering with the curved hemline and gathering at the front where it meets the yoke.

There is a nice, wide pleat at the back under the yoke - lots of room!  The burrito method used for attaching the yoke gives you clean tidy seams inside the blouse.

One of the things that really sets this blouse apart from the pack is the french seams!  The instructions in the pattern are very clear and easy to follow - and as usual with Love Notions patterns, there are videos to help you with techniques that you might not be familiar with.

The side and sleeve seams are french seams, which results in a very tidy professional look on the inside of the blouse.  As Tami says in the introduction - the inside looks as nice as the outside.

The other new thing with this pattern is the bias binding.  The pattern recommends you not use bought binding because it's made from quilting cotton.  It's actually not hard at all to make your own and Tami includes a link on page 5 of the instructions to how you can make your own from a square of your fabric.  1.25" strips made perfect double-fold bias tape for my 12mm tape maker.

My daughter-in-law was really taken with the cap-sleeve version of this pattern and so I thought I'd try out a wider bias tape on it.

The pattern says you can also use a 3/4" tape maker, but I didn't have that at the time, so I used my 25mm maker.  A 14" square gave me more than enough 1/2" double fold bias tape which was easier to make and apply on this XS size.  This would be an excellent alternative for anyone who is nervous of the narrow tape.

There are a number of new skills for a lot of us with this pattern, but the directions are clear and the videos and bias tape link are huge helps.  The variety of sleeve lengths has something for everyone, the loose bodice is perfect for summer and sizes run from XS to XXXL.  Don't let the new skills make you hesitate with this wonderful pattern.  It's one that you will love and you'll definitely want to make more!

And here's where you can get it - Love Notions' Rhapsody Blouse