Breckenridge Henley

Pattern - Love Notions Breckenridge Henley
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Cotton/spandex French Terry and jersey from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - pattern marking, machine sewing buttons

Love Notions' newest pattern is the Breckenridge Henley.  As always, options, options, options!  Shirt, tunic and dress lengths as well as short and long cuffed sleeves, plus a rolled tabbed long sleeve option.  

The fabric suggestions are light to medium weight kits with at least 40% stretch.  I chose to make mine with cotton/spandex French terry from l'oiseau fabrics with the cuffs and neckband in cotton/spandex jersey.  This pattern is relatively simple once you get the neckband on and of course there's a video to help you with this step.  And naturally I have a few tips for you to help make it easier!

Marking

I can't stress enough how important marking is.  Make sure you transfer all marks to your pattern pieces.  I like to use long quilting pins with coloured heads.  I always use green ones to mark the backs of sleeves and white to mark the fronts and I do the same for the armscye markings.  That way, I never risk putting a sleeve in backwards.

I did the same for the neckband

I matched the pin colours on the band and the bodice front.  There are so many marks on these pieces you can see that it makes the job so much simpler when you have a quick reference to guide you.

Sewing on Buttons by Machine

It took me a long time to get brave enough to try sewing on buttons with my sewing machine.  Now I wonder why I waited so long!  Sewing with a needle and thread always took forever and cramped my hands up.  Once I found out how easy it is, I went out and bought a special foot for my machine, but you can do it without that and I'll tell you how later.

The first thing you need to do is position your buttons.  I pinned the placket together in between where the buttons would go to keep it in place, then dabbed glue stick on the backs of the buttons and placed them on the placket.  Don't worry about the glue - it won't clog up your needle.  By the time you take it to your sewing machine, the glue will be mostly dry.

Now it's time to sew the buttons on.  My machine has a stitch for sewing on buttons, but if yours doesn't, I'll tell you how to get around that, too!

I place the buttons under the foot roughly positioned and drop the foot to hold it in place.  My buttons have 4 holes and I like to do them diagonally.  I put the needle in the left-most hole and then turn the wheel by hand to make sure it's going to slip easily into the right-most hole and when I'm sure I have the button positioned properly, I let the machine do the work.  I do each button once to hold it in place.  

After trimming the loose threads, I turn the front piece around and do the other set of holes.  Each button is now sewn in place with an X of thread.

And to seal the deal, I dab the back of the stitching with Fray Stop to make sure the buttons stay in place.

Now if you don't have a button foot or a button stitch, you can still sew buttons on with your sewing machine as long as it has a zig zag stitch.

Take the foot off your machine.  Put the button roughly in place and drop the post right on it.  You will need to adjust the position a bit.  

Now turn off your feed dogs and set your machine to zig zag.  You want the stitch length as short as you can do it - like 0.

Lower the needle almost to your button and adjust the width of the zig zag stitch so that the needle will go easily into both holes - turn the wheel by hand.

I do about 3 or 4 stitches for each set of holes.  You can tie off the threads at the back and trim them.  And this is where I like to fix them with a drop if Fray Stop.

The placket neckband and row of buttons really finished the Breckenridge Henley. I love that there's a beautiful V and it's not too low.  The sleeve lengths give me plenty of options to change the look up and I love that I can make it tunic and dress length as well as shirt length.  

You can get this pattern through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Breckenridge Henley - sizes XS to 5XL

Mummy & Me Terra Tunics

Patterns - Love Notions Terra Tunic and Prisma Dress
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Mottled French Terry in purple from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - adapting a pattern

I'm a sucker for my grandchildren - they are such fun to sew for!  And they have definite ideas about what they want me to make.  Recently, my granddaughter asked me to make Mummy & Me outfits for her and her mother.

I could have gone the easy route and made them both Laundry Day Tees because that pattern comes in both women's and girls' sizes.  But I knew my daughter-in-law particularly liked boatneck tops.  The Terra Tunic with its many neckline options was going to be perfect.

It has a lovely boatneck finished with buttons.

The tunic length is very flattering with its split hem, the back a little longer than the front.  My problem was that there was no equivalent pattern for girls.  Aha!  But the Prisma might just work!  It has a boatneck option.

The A-line version could be shortened to tunic length and then the hem would be easy enough to copy!  I printed off both patterns and taped them.  I drew a hemline that would be tunic length on the Prisma back piece and then copied the profile of the Terra for the split hem.  If you click on the picture below, you'll see adaptations I made.

Then I cut the pattern piece out.  I traced the new profile onto the front piece, but cut the hem 1" shorter.

That's it!  I followed the instructions for sewing from the tutorials, but when I got to the split hemline, I followed those instructions for both.  It was surprisingly simple - from printing the pattern to finishing both garments took just a morning of my time.  And apparently the Mummy and Me tunics are a big hit!

If you don't already have these patterns, you can get them from my affiliate links below.

Love Notions Terra Tunic

Love Notions Prisma Dress

Hey Presto!

Pattern - Love Notions Presto Tunic
Skill Level - Intermediate
Fabric - rayon challis from Fabricland
Skills - topstitching, buttons and buttonholes

Spring is just around the corner, isn't it?  Well, we need to work on the spring wardrobe, then.  And Love Notions has just the thing - the Presto Tunic!  Made from a light woven, Presto has the usual multiple options - 4 sleeve lengths and a choice of mandarin collar or a bias-bound neckline.  The loose body has darts at the front and optional shaping darts for the back.  And, of course, it has a full bust option for people like me - how I love that full bust option!

The pattern's tutorial is detailed and well-illustrated as we've come to expect and in addition, two video links help you with the trickier aspects - the inset panel and the split hem.  Therefore, in this post, I'll concentrate on the topstitching, buttons and buttonholes.

Buttonholes seem to worry quite a number of people, and they really aren't that difficult.  If you're in the market for a new sewing machine, make sure you get one that has one-step buttonholes.  It's an option that nearly all modern sewing machines have these days.


Before you can do the buttonholes, the panel must be readied.  The tutorial instructions will walk you through this.  One tip I'd pass along is that when topstitching the placket in the panel, do all your stitching in the same direction. (Click on the pictures to see them in more detail.)

My sewing machine's foot has red dots at the 1/8" mark to help with topstitching.  By keeping that dot on the edge I get sharp, even lines.  I do my first line of stitching on the side away from the seam with pins holding the placket in place.

Then I topstitch the seam edge.  With all stitching going in the same direction, I lessen the chances of distortion with the light fabric I used.  Topstitching done, I'm now ready for the buttonholes.

The buttonholes will be on the shirt's right side of the panel, so I place the buttonhole guide next to that placket.  If you're in any confusion which side that is, just make your pieces mirror those in the tutorial. I mark the bottom of each buttonhole with a pin as this is where my machine will start.  Then I take the placket piece to my sewing machine and stitch the buttonholes.  Now we're ready for buttons!  And you can do that with your sewing machine, too!

First, I place the two pieces of the panel beside each other so that I know exactly where the buttons will go.  I use a glue stick for this step and dab a bit of glue on the back of each button before positioning it on the left panel placket.  The glue will be dry by the time I stitch and won't hurt the machine's needle at all.  And just a note - I regularly check out my local thrift store for buttons - which is where I bought these ones for a whole 30 cents!

Buttons in place, I'm ready to machine stitch them on.  I have a button foot and my machine has a special stitch for that but don't worry if yours doesn't - I tell you how to get around this later.  I lower the needle into the first hole (I go diagonally across the holes as these buttons have 4 holes), then when I think I have the button properly placed, I lower the foot.

I always do the first couple of stitches manually to make sure that the button is in the right spot, then let the machine do the rest.  I do all of one diagonal side first and trim off all the threads.

Then I flip the piece to do the other diagonal side, trim the threads and I'm done.  Takes all of a minute or two!

And once you've had a taste of letting the machine do the work, you'll never go back to hand-sewing buttons again!

Don't have a button foot?  Your machine doesn't have a special button stitch? No problem.  Take the foot off your sewing machine.  Set your machine to zig zag with the shortest stitch length you can - like 0!  Adjust the width of the zig zag until it's the right width for your button holes.  Turn off the feed dogs.  Lower the needle into one of the button's holes and then lower the post of your machine's presser foot onto the button.  Hand wheel the first stitch or two.  Then zig zag some stitches - about 6 or 8.  That's it!

Once the panel is sewn in place - and remember there's a video to help you with this step - it's clear sailing until you get to the hem - and there's a video for that, too!

Warm weather is on the way - treat yourself to a Presto or two.  You can get the pattern through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Presto Tunic

Buttons, Buttonholes and maybe a little extra

Pattern - Classic Oxford Button-Up from Peek A Boo
Fabric - quilting cotton from Fabricland
Skills - buttons, button holes, hemming

I used to dread buttons!  Especially on shirts that required a lot of those little shirt buttons.  My hands would cramp up and it seemed to take forever to do.  Finally I decided to try putting them on with my sewing machine - I do seem to take a while to come to these new-fangled ideas!  Now I wouldn't put them on any other way.

So many people avoid shirts with buttonholes and buttons because the thought of sewing them is intimidating.  It's actually so simple if your machine has the right stitches. If your sewing machine doesn't have automatic buttonholing and you're thinking of getting a new one, definitely go for a machine that has this capability.  Quite inexpensive sewing machines have this capacity.

So lets get started!  I like the way Peek A Boo does button up shirts.  You do the buttons and buttonholes right off the bat when you're just dealing with 2 pieces of pattern.  The first step is to turn and press the shirt fronts 1/4" and then 1".  Then stitch down the front pieces 1" from the edge to secure the fold.  I always stop a couple of inches from the bottom so I can neatly hide the hem in the shirt edge.  It gives a cleaner finish.  Now you're ready to do the buttonholes.

Buttonholes for males are on the left and for females on the right.  Since this is for a boy, I'm putting them on the left.  Start 2 1/2" from the top edge and mark it with a pin.  The instructions say anywhere from 2" to 3" apart, so I spaced the rest of the buttonholes 2 1/2" apart.

I always practice on scrap first as I want to be sure I have the right setting for the buttons, so I made 2 buttonholes, one 15 mm and one 16 mm to see which would fit the buttons best.  I cut them open using my seam ripper and after passing the button through each, decided that 15 mm was the best fit.

Just an aside here - I check out my local thrift store regularly as they remove buttons from unfit shirts and sell them separately.  Decent shirt buttons are so hard to find and I get them very cheaply this way.

I line up the left front so that the edge of it is just peeking out the side of the buttonhole attachment and the needle is lined up at the pin, lower the foot and remove the pin - and away we go!  Stitch all the buttonholes, then trim the loose thread and cut open the buttonholes.

Now it's time to sew on the buttons.  For this part, I use an ordinary washable glue stick.  Another way of securing the button is by putting a piece of tape over it and that's how I started, but as soon as I tried glue stick, I've done it this way ever since.  And don't worry about getting glue on your needle.  The glue is dry by the time you are ready to stitch and your needle stays clean.

Line the two fronts up side by side.  Apply the glue stick to the back of each button and place it on the right side of the shirt front so that it's lined up with the middle of its buttonhole.  Make sure that the holes in the button are square with the edge of the shirt.

My sewing machine has a button foot and a stitch for sewing on the buttons, but you can sew on the buttons without these.  I'll address this at the end of the post.  Since the buttons I'm using have 4 holes, I stitch diagonally - it's a much stronger stitch than just going horizontally or vertically.  With the button stitch selected, I set the button in place and lower the needle so that it's in the left hand hole, then when I think I have the button lined up properly, I lower the foot.  I always hand-wheel the first few stitches to make sure I have the button set up properly.  Sew all the buttons on in this angle first and trim the loose threads.

Now we're ready to do the other angle.  Just as before, line up the buttons, lower the needle, then the foot and sew.  Trim the loose threads and you're done!

Then all you have to do is loosen the buttons so they're no longer glued in place and button up your front.  Not the easiest to see with the fabric I was using, but the buttons and buttonholes are perfectly lined up and it only took a few minutes.

Now what if your machine doesn't have a stitch for sewing on buttons and you don't have a button foot?  No problem!  Remove the foot from the shank. Start with zig zag and a stitch width of 4.  If you can select 0 for the stitch length, great.  I can't on mine.  Then lower the feed dogs so that the fabric isn't drawn through.  Put the button in place and lower the needle to the left hand hole (or right if that's where your zig zag stitch starts).

Now gently lower the foot shank on to the button.  It's precarious, but it should hold.  Hand-wheel the first few stitches, and when you know you have the right stitch width selected, sew on the button.  When you're finished sewing on the buttons, don't forget to raise the feed dogs!  I started sewing on buttons without the button foot but as soon as I realized how great sewing on buttons by machine was, I went right out and ordered one.  I'll bet after doing a set you'll be doing the same thing!