Rhapsody 2.0 - And Homemade Bias Binding

Pattern - Love Notions Rhapsody & Dress
Skill Level - Intermediate
Fabric - Rayon challis from Fabricland
Skills - French seams, bias binding, burrito roll method
Pattern Links - French seams, burrito roll method, bias binding

My favourite pattern just got an upgrade!  The new Rhapsody still has all the bonus features that the original Rhapsody had - the full bust piece and 8 sleeves options but now there's a dress option and the size range is more inclusive as well!  So much in one little package!  And for those who use a projector, there's a file for that, too.

The raw edge of the neckline is finished with bias binding (although you can skip that entirely if you want and just fold the edge under and stitch). You can definitely buy bias binding but if you make your own, you will guarantee a perfect match.  Making your own is surprisingly easy and you can make more than enough from a 12" square.  There are a couple of links in the pattern tutorial to bias binding articles, but I thought I'd go through the procedure I followed to make my 3/8" double-fold tape - step by step.

Making Your Own Bias Tape

First you start with a 12" square

Cut the square in half diagonally and pin the halfway points top and bottom

Lay one triangle on top of the other - right sides together - matching the centre pins

Now stitch them together on the pinned edge with a 1/4" seam

Press the seam open

Now take the fabric back to your cutting mat and lay it out with the top against a horizontal line.  This helps ensure that your fabric doesn't distort.  Draw lines 1.5" apart - you can use a pen or a pencil as you'll be cutting on those lines eventually.  That's the width for 3/8" double fold tape.  If you're making 1/4" double fold, the lines should be 1.25" apart.  Trim off any excess fabric.

This next part is the only tricky part so take your time.  With right sides together, match lines, but offset one strip.  I usually start pinning in the middle and work my way to the edges.  So you will have a one strip width sticking out each end.

Take it to your sewing machine and stitch a seam 1/4" from the edge.  Press the seam open.

Now just start at one end and keep cutting following the line until you have one long strip of fabric cut on the bias.

Now you're ready to make the tape.  If you're making 1/4" double fold you use a 12mm tape maker (or 1/2") and if you're making 3/8" double fold like I did you use an 18mm tape maker (or 3/4").

Insert one pointed edge of the strip in the tape maker with the right side down.  As it feeds through, press with your iron. 

You now have single fold tape.  To get double fold tape, you just fold it over once more and press.

I store my finished tape on empty toilet rolls and store them in one of my sewing drawers.  And once you know how to make your own bias tape from a small square of fabric, you'll never have to buy it again!

Securing the 3/4 Sleeve Cuff

And one more little thing.  To keep the cuff where it's supposed to be I always do a "stitch in the ditch" on the seamline plus about 5 stitches at the opposite. 

If your thread is a good match, no one will ever know it's there, but your cuff will stay folded up.

Now back to the Rhapsody!  I chose a rayon challis border print to make mine.  I cut my pieces to make maximum use of the print and even managed to get the back yoke and sleeve ends on the border print. 

The Rhapsody is the perfect summer top - it's light and loose, just what you need for warm weather.  If you already have the Rhapsody, the updated version is in your account on the Love Notions website.  If you don't have it yet, you can get it through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse & Dress sizes XS to 5XL

A Duet of Tips for the Duet Trousers

Pattern:  Love Notions Duet Trousers
Skill Level: Confident Beginner (knit) Intermediate (woven)
Fabric: woven polyester with spandex from Fabricland
Skills:  Stitching in the Ditch and Blind Hemming

Love Notions' Duet Trousers is a pattern made for either woven or knit.  As trousers, dressier than pants, they are meant to be a looser fitting garment - not tight fitting - and should hang straight down from the buttocks, not cup them.  I chose to make mine in a polyester/spandex woven which has plenty of drape - stiffer fabrics are not the best choice for this pattern.  If using a knit, you might need to size down.  The knit pattern has a yoga waistband while the woven version uses a contoured waistband with an invisible zipper and the option is there to put in a control panel.  You can choose from straight legs or tapered.  And pockets!

While the pattern is fairly simple, there are several procedures which might be new.  As always, Love Notions has videos to help you, such as installing an invisible zipper but I thought I'd walk through a couple of them.

Stitching in the Ditch

After the waistband is sewn in and faced, it needs to be stitched down.  This can be done by hand, but it can also be done by machine.  First, I finished off the raw edge of my waistband lining with the serger.  This can also be done with a sewing machine using an overlock stitch to secure the edge.  Then I pinned the waistband in place and took it to my sewing machine right side out.

Stitching in the ditch is just that - you carefully stitch in the seam between the waistband and the trousers.  Fortunately, my machine can go really slow - which is needed to stitch in that seamline accurately!

This fixes the waistband securely in place.  You do have the option to fold under and attach the lining by hand, but I'm always looking for the easy way.  I'm quite prepared to run my machine at a snail's pace to avoid some hand sewing!  You can also fold under the waistband lining so it's just past the seamline and catch it with your sewing machine, but I've seen ready-to-wear pants finished as above, so I elected to do it this way as it creates less bulk.

And when you're done, that stitching will be barely visible.

Blind Hemming

Next to sewing on buttons by hand is my dislike of hemming by hand!  Of course I'm going to try out blind hemming!

This was the first time I'd used the blind hemming foot that came with my machine.  The blind hemming stitch has several straight stitches to the right and then jogs in to the left to catch a fold.  And of course, I practiced first.

First, serge the raw edge (or overlock stitch on the sewing machine) pin up the hem and iron it.

Next, fold back the hem so that the overlocked edge is to the right and the fold to the left - about 1/4" showing.  I folded just to the edge of the serging with the red guide keeping the fold in place.  Using a thread that was a good match, I stitched my practice swatch, unfolded and ironed it.  I was amazing at how good it looked!

On to the real thing!  I followed the same procedure and in no time at all, the pants were hemmed.

A good pressing and you can barely see the stitching.

The Duet Trousers from Love Notions are dressy trousers that definitely have a place in your cupboard.  Paired with low-heeled boots or with heels, you're set for the office or a night on the town.  You can get the Duet Trousers through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Duet Trousers.

To Understitch Or Not?

I didn't enjoy high school sewing - it was basic and boring and I dropped out as soon as I could!  However, sewing is in my blood - my grandmother was a real whiz, my grandfather was a Singer dealer and genealogy showed me a long line of seamstresses in my background - so I had to give it another try.  I took sewing in night school a few years later and learned a LOT!  And one of those lessons was the importance of understitching.

So what is understitching?  It's a line of stitching close to the seamline on the facing (or bias tape) side which prevents your neckline from rolling.  It keeps that facing where it's supposed to be.  It reinforces the seam - makes it stronger and less likely to fray with woven fabrics. And it makes turning that neckline (or sleeveless armscye) just so much easier.

I wanted to see what the real differences were with necklines understitched and not understitched so I cut 2 XS necklines from Love Notions' new Harmony blouse.

It calls for a facing of 1/2" single fold bias tape on the neckline.  I was careful while stitching down the bias tape to follow the curve of the neckline - not to straighten it while sewing - as this will cause stretching and the neckline will not lie flat if this happens.  You can stay stitch the neckline before sewing on the bias tape to prevent this, but I was lazy and wanted to get the job done - so I was careful!

I stitched the bias tape to both necklines to make a proper comparison.

Next, I understitched one neckline.  I brought the seam to the facing side and stitched slightly less than 1/8" from the seamline while holding the seam to the facing side.

I took both necklines to my iron.  The understitched neckline was so much easier to iron!  Most of the work had already been done for me by the understitching.  The other neckline took more work to make sure that the facing didn't show.  It seemed to me that the understitched one also lay flatter.

Finally, I topstitched both necklines.  (And wouldn't you know - I ran out of thread while topstitching the understitched one!) The understitched one on the right definitely lay flatter.

After ironing, both necklines lay flat, but I could see where a bit of facing was peeking up on the non-understitched one and the neckline wasn't as smooth.

Conclusion?  If you want the neckline to be as trouble-free and smooth as possible, definitely take a little time and understitch it!

And want to try your hand at understitching?  Love Notions has a couple of great patterns that are easy to sew and you can use my affiliate links below to get them if they aren't already in your inventory.

Love Notions Harmony Blouse
Love Notions Cadence Dress & Top

Hey Presto!

Pattern - Love Notions Presto Tunic
Skill Level - Intermediate
Fabric - rayon challis from Fabricland
Skills - topstitching, buttons and buttonholes

Spring is just around the corner, isn't it?  Well, we need to work on the spring wardrobe, then.  And Love Notions has just the thing - the Presto Tunic!  Made from a light woven, Presto has the usual multiple options - 4 sleeve lengths and a choice of mandarin collar or a bias-bound neckline.  The loose body has darts at the front and optional shaping darts for the back.  And, of course, it has a full bust option for people like me - how I love that full bust option!

The pattern's tutorial is detailed and well-illustrated as we've come to expect and in addition, two video links help you with the trickier aspects - the inset panel and the split hem.  Therefore, in this post, I'll concentrate on the topstitching, buttons and buttonholes.

Buttonholes seem to worry quite a number of people, and they really aren't that difficult.  If you're in the market for a new sewing machine, make sure you get one that has one-step buttonholes.  It's an option that nearly all modern sewing machines have these days.


Before you can do the buttonholes, the panel must be readied.  The tutorial instructions will walk you through this.  One tip I'd pass along is that when topstitching the placket in the panel, do all your stitching in the same direction. (Click on the pictures to see them in more detail.)

My sewing machine's foot has red dots at the 1/8" mark to help with topstitching.  By keeping that dot on the edge I get sharp, even lines.  I do my first line of stitching on the side away from the seam with pins holding the placket in place.

Then I topstitch the seam edge.  With all stitching going in the same direction, I lessen the chances of distortion with the light fabric I used.  Topstitching done, I'm now ready for the buttonholes.

The buttonholes will be on the shirt's right side of the panel, so I place the buttonhole guide next to that placket.  If you're in any confusion which side that is, just make your pieces mirror those in the tutorial. I mark the bottom of each buttonhole with a pin as this is where my machine will start.  Then I take the placket piece to my sewing machine and stitch the buttonholes.  Now we're ready for buttons!  And you can do that with your sewing machine, too!

First, I place the two pieces of the panel beside each other so that I know exactly where the buttons will go.  I use a glue stick for this step and dab a bit of glue on the back of each button before positioning it on the left panel placket.  The glue will be dry by the time I stitch and won't hurt the machine's needle at all.  And just a note - I regularly check out my local thrift store for buttons - which is where I bought these ones for a whole 30 cents!

Buttons in place, I'm ready to machine stitch them on.  I have a button foot and my machine has a special stitch for that but don't worry if yours doesn't - I tell you how to get around this later.  I lower the needle into the first hole (I go diagonally across the holes as these buttons have 4 holes), then when I think I have the button properly placed, I lower the foot.

I always do the first couple of stitches manually to make sure that the button is in the right spot, then let the machine do the rest.  I do all of one diagonal side first and trim off all the threads.

Then I flip the piece to do the other diagonal side, trim the threads and I'm done.  Takes all of a minute or two!

And once you've had a taste of letting the machine do the work, you'll never go back to hand-sewing buttons again!

Don't have a button foot?  Your machine doesn't have a special button stitch? No problem.  Take the foot off your sewing machine.  Set your machine to zig zag with the shortest stitch length you can - like 0!  Adjust the width of the zig zag until it's the right width for your button holes.  Turn off the feed dogs.  Lower the needle into one of the button's holes and then lower the post of your machine's presser foot onto the button.  Hand wheel the first stitch or two.  Then zig zag some stitches - about 6 or 8.  That's it!

Once the panel is sewn in place - and remember there's a video to help you with this step - it's clear sailing until you get to the hem - and there's a video for that, too!

Warm weather is on the way - treat yourself to a Presto or two.  You can get the pattern through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Presto Tunic

The Sloane - My New Winter Friend

Pattern - Love Notions' Sloane Sweater for Ladies
Skill Level - confident beginner
Fabric - Fabricland rayon/spandex and brushed shirting
Skills - Applique

The Sloane Sweater is such a quick and easy pattern plus it's so comfortable, you want to make a bunch.  And with so many options, there's lots of scope to make sweaters that are unique.  But how about mixing things up - I mean - can you add a woven component?  I thought I'd give it a try!

I make most of my husband's shirts and for winter wear he especially loves brushed shirting so I usually have a lot of leftovers on hand.  I also had olive green rayon/spandex that was an exact match for one of the plaids which was a remnant from a shirt I'd made my son.  Perfect!  Click on any of the pictures to see them in more detail.

To make sure that there was "give" in the woven component, I decided to do my cuts on the bias.  First of all, I cut a square from the plaid and gave it a quick iron so it would lie as flat and square as possible.  As I was planning on adding elbow patches as well, I made the square big enough for both.

I folded the fabric diagonally, matching as best I could the stripes of the plaid, and laid out my pieces.

Using the rotary cutter, I had my woven component ready. Stitching in the yoke wasn't going to be a problem.  My big question was how to handle the patches.  Do I just stitch around and leave raw edges?  Do I use a straight stitch?  A zig zag?  I decided I was going to serge the edges and stitch on with a long, shallow zig zag.

But first, I should practice! I cut a second set of elbow patches and serged around the edge of one.  I wanted the end of the serging to be as invisible as possible, so when I met up with the beginning of my serging, I lifted the presser foot and turned the patch out of the stitching line, then dropped the foot and serged off.  The resulting tail would be pressed under the patch.  Great - I liked the look!

Now to practice stitching onto the rayon/spandex!  I pinned the patch to the knit fabric and chose a long, shallow zig zag on my sewing machine.

Since I had serged in black (picking up black in the plaid), I threaded my machine with black and the resulting stitching was lost in the serging line.  A quick press to take out the waviness and I was happy with the result.

I have inherited my father's long arms so I knew the patch would be too high on my elbow.  I wound up moving the patch down 3/4" - and probably could have done with a bit more!  I used lots of pins to attach the patches to the sleeve and the resulting elbow patches have turned out perfectly!

Attaching the yoke went as quickly as I'd thought it would - just one note here - you're moving from knit to woven (albeit on the bias) and back to knit again.  When serging on straight knit I had my serger's differential on 1.5.  When serging on knit and bias woven, I changed it to 1.3.  If the woven had not been on the bias I would have used N.

Once these two processes were out of the way, the rest of the sew was very quick.  And now I have another Sloane to add to the pack - bring on the cool weather!

If you don't already have the Sloane, you can get it through my affiliate link below.  And don't forget there's a Sloane for girls!  You just can't have too many Sloanes!

Love Notions' Sloane Sweater for Ladies
Love Notions' Sloane Sweater for Girls

Be sure to visit all the Sloane Blog Tour bloggers for some amazing versions of this super pattern!

Monday: Sew Shelly Sew, The Wholesome Mama, Ruby Rue Creations

Tuesday: Third Shift Creations, Sew Like a Sloth, Four Seasons and a Roadtrip

Wednesday: Seamly Behaviour, My Heart Will Sew On, Ma Moose

Thursday: SewSophieLynn, Very Blissful Blog, Kainara stitches, Sprouting JubeJube

Friday: Sew and Tell Project, Sewing curves, Princesse et trésors, All Things Katy!