From Boyfriend Cardigan to Housecoat!

Pattern - Love Notions Boyfriend Cardigan
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - French Terry from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - zipper installation

I desperately needed a new dressing gown/housecoat!  I thought really hard about using the Octave Coat - and let's face it - that would be amazing!  But I didn't want a wrap gown with the tie belt or buttons.  I wanted something that zipped up the front.  Finally I decided that the Boyfriend Cardigan could work.

My plan was to lengthen it and sandwich the zipper in the shawl collar pieces.  I would also size up to make sure that it was roomy.

I had a length of lovely French Terry from l'oiseau fabrics that I'd been hoarding.  The 2.5 metres should be enough for the body and 3/4 sleeves I was wanting.  The collar would have to come from a solid and I had black French Terry which would also do for the pockets.

I extended the front, back and shawl collar pieces 14" by just adding onto the bottom and removed the vent extensions.  I added 3/8" for a seam allowance to the outer edge of the shawl collar as I wasn't going to be cutting it on the fold.

I followed the tutorial instructions until I got to attaching the shawl collar.  It was time to get ready for the zipper installation.

I stitched the shawl collar pieces together at the back to create two separate collar pieces.  I pinned one collar section to the body - right sides together.

Now it was time to start thinking about the zipper and how high up to place it.  Since the gown was nearly complete, I was able to put it on and hold up the zipper and mark it on the collar pieces.  As 30" was the longest separating zipper I could find, I knew it wouldn't go all the way down, but I needed it fairly high up the front.

Next I placed the gown on my cutting table front facing up with the halves separated and the bottoms even with one another.  The shawl collar was brought to the centre so it was facing right side out.

Then I applied double-sided tape on the edges to keep the zipper tape in place.

I laid the zipper halves on top of the double-sided tape with the teeth facing away from the edge.  Then I laid the other shawl collar piece on top, matching at the back centre and bottom ends, then pinning in between.  Time to take it to my sewing machine.  And a big tip!

I know that with the under piece of the collar stabilized by the double-sided tape and zipper, that the top layer could stretch and shift, so I employed a little trickery!  I had a piece of card stock which I placed right beside the needle and stitched right at the edge of the card stock.  This prevents the top layer from stretching and moving.  As I reached the end of the card stock I kept the needle down, lifted the foot and moved the card stock along - until I reached the end of the zipper.  It works like a charm!

Now for the finishing steps.  With right sides together, I stitched across the ends of the shawl collar pieces 1" from the bottom and trimmed the corners.  I turned the corners inside out, then pinned up the bottom hem 1" and pressed.

Then, to secure the collar to the gown, I pinned the collar in place so that the raw edge covered the seam, which I had pressed towards the collar.  I pinned along the seam on the right side while my fingers felt to make sure that the raw edge was far enough over the gown body side to be caught by my machine.

Then finally I stitched all around the gown collar and then across the hem.  I used my coverstitch machine, but a sewing machine works equally as well.

And I'm delighted with how it's turned out!  I now have the zip up housecoat I've been thinking about for months!  If you don't already have the Boyfriend Cardigan, you can get it through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Boyfriend Cardigan

Happy sewing!

New Cushion Covers

A friend got a real find at our local thrift store.  She scored several yards of beautiful drapery material and wondered if I could make new cushion covers for her. She was fine with whatever closure I was able to manage.

The first thing I did was to take one of the old covers off and "liberate" the zipper from it.  Time to use the lovely seam ripper that hubby made me!  I measured the old cushion cover and cut the front and back of the new cover 22" square and allowed .5" seam allowance.

My first attempt at installing the zipper was how I'd done them in lined zipper bags.  But I didn't like the look and ripped out the zipper. 

Then I used a lint roller to catch up all the little bits of thread - you need one of these in your sewing kit!

I finally decided to sew a .5" seam down one side of the squares.  I measured off 2" at each end and marked them with green-headed pins.  Yellow headed pins denoted where I'd sew a basting stitch.  I used a 2.5 stitch length for the first 2", cut the thread and then stitched 4.0 to the other green pin, cut the thread and finally stitched 2.5 to the end.  Where the stitching line came to the basting stitch, I doubled back to secure the ends.  I pressed the seam open.

I laid the zipper out on the seam with the zipper teeth directly over the stitching line.  I used green-headed pins at each end of the basting stitch.  Zipper foot on the sewing machine, I stitched down one side of the zipper to just past the green-headed pin.

Then I turned 90 degrees, stitched over the zipper teeth (no problem on nylon teeth!), did another 90 degrees and then stitched up the other side of the zipper.  I used the seam ripper to take out the basting stitch and now I was ready to finish sewing the cover.  And it's important at this point to open the zipper so that you'll be able to turn the cover right side out!

I folded the cover right sides together and pinned.  I stitched down one side, across the bottom and up the final side.  I clipped the two bottom corners to make turning easier.

Now all I had to do was to stuff the cushions in their new covers and admire how nice they looked!  Including ripping out the old zippers, cutting the fabric, back-tracking on zipper installation and finally finishing the covers, it only took me a couple of hours and now my friend has 3 lovely new cushions.

And now that I know how easy it is, I'm going to re-do some of my own cushion covers!

Constellation - and a Tip or Two

Pattern:  Love Notions Constellation
Skill Level:  Confident Beginner
Fabric: Brushed French terry and cotton/spandex from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills:  Installing a zipper and reducing bulk in a hem.

The newest star of Love Notions is the Constellation.  This is the grownup version of the children's Navigator and one that will find a place in everyone's closet.  As usual with Love Notions patterns - options!  Do you want a hoodie or would you prefer a collar?  How about the hem - a fold-over on a curved hem or would you rather have a band?  It also lends itself beautifully to colour blocking!  While it does need to be made from fabric with at least 25% stretch, you can make it as light (cotton/spandex) or as heavy (sweatshirt fleece) as you want!  There's something here for everyone!

One of the things that really sets this pattern apart from other pullovers is the finish - no raw seams in evidence here!  Instead, a bias binding finish on the neck raises this to a professional look.  In fact, you'll want to show it off!

The Zipper

The zipper is such an easy install and as with so many Love Notions patterns, there are videos to help you - one for the zipper and another for the bias binding - that take all the mystery out of these steps.  I'm going to show you a trick I learned from a school chum of mine who is now a top-notch sewing instructor.  The way to make zippers behave is to use double-sided washable basting tape!

Once the outside piece of the collar has been attached to the body, you're ready to do the zipper.  Instead of using pins, I attach the first side of the zipper with double-sided washable basting tape.  I run the tape right down the edge of one side, trim at the bottom and then remove the paper topping.

Now I place one side of the zipper - just as the video shows - but instead of using pins, the tape holds everything securely in place.

Then I simply take it to my sewing machine, and with the zipper foot in place, I stitch right down this side of the zipper.

The other side of the zipper needs a little more care.  Again - watch the video to see how Kelly shows you how to make sure that your neck seam will match.  I pin that little bit and check to make sure my seams match.  When I'm sure that I have it in the right spot, I machine baste that small section and then put basting tape in all the rest and stitch on my sewing machine.  And just like that, you're done with the trickiest part of the sew!

The Bias Binding

Just a small hint for you here.  I love this finish so much that I make my own bias binding!  After I've stitched it to the inside collar piece, I trim just a hair off the edge of the seam so that it will fold over easily.

The Curved Hem

A curved hem is really not that difficult.  I use lots of pins to secure it in place.  You can see that the curve creates lots of bulges in the hem.  So now I bring on the iron.  I steam press the hem on the inside of the garment.  I just press down with the iron and that seems to shrink the fabric just a little.  With all the pinning, if there are any tucks created, they will be tiny.

And as you can see, I now have a nice flat surface for stitching.

The front of the Constellation poses another possible challenge.  The kangaroo pocket means you have a double layer of fabric which could result in a bulky hem that sticks out.  And there's a way to get around that.  After I've pressed the front portion of the pullover hem, I then take out the pins, and using the pressed fold of the pocket lining as my guide, I trim off 1" of fabric.  Then I fold the hem back in place and press it again.

Now I have a much less bulky hem to take to my coverstitch machine that will hang properly when I wear it.

I can see that I'll be making more of the Constellation Pullover.  Its options and the fabric I use will let me make each one a unique garment that I know I'll be getting lots of wear from.  If you don't already have this terrific pattern, you can get it through my affiliate link below

Love Notions Constellation Pullover

Lined Zipper Pouch

I'm pretty bad at throwing away scraps of fabric when I've finished a garment - I'm always sure that there's something I can make them into.  I recently started taking part in a summer market on our little island and quickly discovered that buyers were tempted by little things.  I thought that lined zipper pouches might be just the ticket!  This is a very quick project - perhaps 15 minutes to half an hour total.  Click on the pictures to see details more closely.

And with shelves of pretty fabric pieces plus zippers purchased at our local thrift store, I had all the ingredients.

I started by cutting 2 pieces of outer fabric and 2 pieces of lining to 9"x7" rectangles.  You can cut your pieces however big or small you like, just make sure that the lining and outer pieces are the same size.  Use a plastic-toothed zipper - no metal, please!  You want a zipper longer than the 9" width of your bag pieces.

I placed one of the rectangles of outer fabric in the middle of the long plastic-toothed zipper with the right side of the fabric against the right side of the zipper.  It's pinned in the picture but I stitched without pinning.  You can definitely pin these together if you are more comfortable with that.

With the zipper foot on my sewing machine, I stitched next to the zipper teeth with the fabric on top and the zipper on the bottom.  Now flip the front piece back and put the other outer piece in place - right side of the fabric against the right side of the zipper, making sure that it matches the first piece and stitch in place.  I have the piece folded back in the picture to show how the right sides go together.

Now it's time for the lining.  Fold the outer pieces down so the wrong side of the zipper is exposed and place the right side of the lining against the wrong side of the zipper, matching it up with the outer pieces.

Stitch along the line of previous stitching.

Do the same with the other lining piece.  Now we're ready to topstitch.

Move lining and outer pieces to each side of the zipper.  The zipper should be in the middle with no fabric behind it.

With the zipper foot still on the sewing machine, topstitch close to the edge with a slightly longer stitch length so that the topstitching shows.

Pull the zipper tab into the middle of the bag and trim off the ends.  Ask me how I know to pull the zipper back first!  Now it's time to finish stitching the bag together.

Put the right sides of the outer and the right sides of the lining together.  Make sure the zipper is pulled back into the centre so that you'll be able to reach through and pull the bag right side out when you're finished stitching.

With the zipper folded back to the lining side, match the topstitched seams and pin in place.

Put the regular foot back on your sewing machine. Start stitching on the lining bottom.  I leave a 5/8" seam allowance along the bottom of the lining and 1/2" seam allowance everywhere else.  Stitch slowly and carefully through the zipper - you can manually wheel through this part.  Do not stitch across the bottom of the lining.  You will need this opening to pull the bag right side out.

Clip across the corners, being careful not to cut through the stitching and trim back the seams.

Now reach into the opening and pull the bag right side out.

At this point, I use a pencil to poke out the corners of the outer bag.

I stitch the bag opening just along the edge.  You can do this by hand, but as it's hidden inside the bag, choosing a matching thread seemed enough to me!

Stuff the lining back inside the bag and pull the zipper closed.  That's all there is to it!

Such a quick, easy project - over the last couple of days, I've made ten to sell on my stall with pieces cut out for more - wish me luck!