From Boyfriend Cardigan to Housecoat!

Pattern - Love Notions Boyfriend Cardigan
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - French Terry from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - zipper installation

I desperately needed a new dressing gown/housecoat!  I thought really hard about using the Octave Coat - and let's face it - that would be amazing!  But I didn't want a wrap gown with the tie belt or buttons.  I wanted something that zipped up the front.  Finally I decided that the Boyfriend Cardigan could work.

My plan was to lengthen it and sandwich the zipper in the shawl collar pieces.  I would also size up to make sure that it was roomy.

I had a length of lovely French Terry from l'oiseau fabrics that I'd been hoarding.  The 2.5 metres should be enough for the body and 3/4 sleeves I was wanting.  The collar would have to come from a solid and I had black French Terry which would also do for the pockets.

I extended the front, back and shawl collar pieces 14" by just adding onto the bottom and removed the vent extensions.  I added 3/8" for a seam allowance to the outer edge of the shawl collar as I wasn't going to be cutting it on the fold.

I followed the tutorial instructions until I got to attaching the shawl collar.  It was time to get ready for the zipper installation.

I stitched the shawl collar pieces together at the back to create two separate collar pieces.  I pinned one collar section to the body - right sides together.

Now it was time to start thinking about the zipper and how high up to place it.  Since the gown was nearly complete, I was able to put it on and hold up the zipper and mark it on the collar pieces.  As 30" was the longest separating zipper I could find, I knew it wouldn't go all the way down, but I needed it fairly high up the front.

Next I placed the gown on my cutting table front facing up with the halves separated and the bottoms even with one another.  The shawl collar was brought to the centre so it was facing right side out.

Then I applied double-sided tape on the edges to keep the zipper tape in place.

I laid the zipper halves on top of the double-sided tape with the teeth facing away from the edge.  Then I laid the other shawl collar piece on top, matching at the back centre and bottom ends, then pinning in between.  Time to take it to my sewing machine.  And a big tip!

I know that with the under piece of the collar stabilized by the double-sided tape and zipper, that the top layer could stretch and shift, so I employed a little trickery!  I had a piece of card stock which I placed right beside the needle and stitched right at the edge of the card stock.  This prevents the top layer from stretching and moving.  As I reached the end of the card stock I kept the needle down, lifted the foot and moved the card stock along - until I reached the end of the zipper.  It works like a charm!

Now for the finishing steps.  With right sides together, I stitched across the ends of the shawl collar pieces 1" from the bottom and trimmed the corners.  I turned the corners inside out, then pinned up the bottom hem 1" and pressed.

Then, to secure the collar to the gown, I pinned the collar in place so that the raw edge covered the seam, which I had pressed towards the collar.  I pinned along the seam on the right side while my fingers felt to make sure that the raw edge was far enough over the gown body side to be caught by my machine.

Then finally I stitched all around the gown collar and then across the hem.  I used my coverstitch machine, but a sewing machine works equally as well.

And I'm delighted with how it's turned out!  I now have the zip up housecoat I've been thinking about for months!  If you don't already have the Boyfriend Cardigan, you can get it through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Boyfriend Cardigan

Happy sewing!