Sunday 16 June 2019

Hints for Perfect Collars

Pattern - Love Notions Melody Dolman
Skill Level - Intermediate
Fabric - l'oiseau fabrics - Elise: Seersucker
Skills - stay stitching, pressing, interfacing, using a clapper

Love Notions' newest pattern is a dolman - and what a terrific pattern to have in your collection for cool, comfortable summer wear!  Made with woven apparel fabric, this blouse is actually a fairly quick sew.  The only things which might slow you down are buttons and the collar.  We've talked about buttons before, so this time I'm going to concentrate on the collar.
There's a link to an excellent video right in the pattern's tutorial but I'll toss in a few hints to help make things even easier.  I used a lovely, light cotton/viscose seersucker from l'oiseau fabrics to make mine.

Stay Stitching

The neck opening is stay stitched to prevent it from stretching.  This is especially important if you're using a light fabric - as I did.  I lengthened my stitch from 2.5 to 3.5 and ran the stitching line slightly inside the 3/8" seam allowance.

Interfacing

The collar is interfaced on one collar piece.  Often you will find that after the interfacing has been applied, there is a slight difference between the 2 pieces - the interfaced piece may be slightly smaller than the un-interfaced piece.
If the difference is slight, pin at each collar point and then pin evenly along the outside length of the collar.  There may be slight bulging between the pins and you really don't want tucks on the outside of your collar!
Now take it to your steam iron and press.  This will cause the fabric to contract slightly and now you'll find it's nice and flat.
But we're not out of the woods yet.  You can still get tucks!  When you stitch the collar pieces together, have the interfaced side on top.  This way, the sewing machine's foot can't accidentally push the top fabric and cause a tuck.  The feed dogs pull the under fabric through evenly.

After you've trimmed the seam allowance and turned the collar right side out, it's time to press.  Now I use a handy tool my husband made for me - a clapper.  A clapper is just a block of hardwood that you slap on the fabric after applying steam.  First I press the collar so that the seam line is at the very edge of the piece.  Now to get things really sharp, I use the clapper.
I press with the iron, lift it off and put the clapper on the bit just pressed.  That holds the steam on the fabric and gives me a very sharp edge.  I'm ready to topstitch.  And a clapper is a handy tool to have anywhere you want precise pressing - like with darts or hems.

Stitching on the Collar

One last hint is how I stitch the collar on the bodice.  I usually have the bodice on the bottom and the collar on top.  I do it this way, because my collar is now pretty solid with the interfacing up, while the neck portion of the bodice is less stable so I want it next to the feed dogs.  However, unless you are very careful in your stitching, it's easy to get tucks. 
My fingers do the work for me as I slowly stitch the neckline, smoothing the bodice under the collar out of the way and feeling for any possible tucks under the collar with my fingertips as it feeds through.  It's actually a good habit to get into for any sewing or serging.
And now you only have a couple more simple step before you have your collar on - the blouse is nearly finished!  And look at that heart shape!  You can certainly tell it's a Love Notions pattern and it has all the usual hard work and care behind it that we have come to expect!
The Love Notions Melody Dolman is an excellent addition to your summer wardrobe.  You can use a variety of light to medium weight apparel woven fabrics to get just the blouse to make the summer heat more bearable.  You can get the Melody Dolman through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Melody Dolman


Monday 3 June 2019

Summer Basics Tank Top - and Layering!

Pattern - Love Notions Summer Basics
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - l'oiseau fabrics  modal French terry
Skills - knit binding

As a staunch member of the Bat Wing Club, I was quite hesitant about helping test a tank pattern.  I really don't like to show off my upper arms!  However a tank can be an essential part of a wardrobe when you do some layering.  Love Notions Summer Basics isn't just about a tank top - it's also a knee-length dress and a maxi-length dress, so as usual with Love Notions patterns, you have options!

I already had a beautiful modal French terry on hand - Cherry Blossoms from l'oiseau fabrics - and knew it would be the perfect choice for my tank.  And it turns out that the Summer Basics Tank is such a quick sew.  The knit binding method gives you a professional finish that looks like it just came off the rack.  And before you know it - you have your tank!

Now, how to wear it!  I'm comfortable wearing a tank top around the house but have always been shy about baring my upper arms.  Layering is the answer!

A loose shirt is the perfect layering addition allowing you to stay cool and yet be comfortable. 
And as it happens, this shirt is one I made for my husband!  Well, he can hand it over now!

A tank top is also an essential part of the winter wardrobe - under a jacket or a low-necked dress, for instance.
Here, I'm wearing another one under Love Notions Serenity Sweater which needs to be worn over something - what could be better than Love Notions Summer Basics tank!  This tank is made with an athletic wicking fabric and works perfectly as an under garment.

And of course layering isn't just for the tank.  It works equally well for both the dresses.  A jacket or cardigan would be perfect over both knee-length and maxi.  And to be totally elegant, how about a shawl or dupatta over the maxi?  The quintessential sophisticated and yet comfortable evening dress!

Okay - I've talked me into it!  The Summer Basics is definitely a must-have part of my wardrobe!  You can get your copy through my affiliate link below - and if you don't already have it, grab the Serenity Sweater as well

Love Notions Summer Basics
Love Notions Serenity Sweater