Breckenridge Henley

Pattern - Love Notions Breckenridge Henley
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Cotton/spandex French Terry and jersey from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - pattern marking, machine sewing buttons

Love Notions' newest pattern is the Breckenridge Henley.  As always, options, options, options!  Shirt, tunic and dress lengths as well as short and long cuffed sleeves, plus a rolled tabbed long sleeve option.  

The fabric suggestions are light to medium weight kits with at least 40% stretch.  I chose to make mine with cotton/spandex French terry from l'oiseau fabrics with the cuffs and neckband in cotton/spandex jersey.  This pattern is relatively simple once you get the neckband on and of course there's a video to help you with this step.  And naturally I have a few tips for you to help make it easier!

Marking

I can't stress enough how important marking is.  Make sure you transfer all marks to your pattern pieces.  I like to use long quilting pins with coloured heads.  I always use green ones to mark the backs of sleeves and white to mark the fronts and I do the same for the armscye markings.  That way, I never risk putting a sleeve in backwards.

I did the same for the neckband

I matched the pin colours on the band and the bodice front.  There are so many marks on these pieces you can see that it makes the job so much simpler when you have a quick reference to guide you.

Sewing on Buttons by Machine

It took me a long time to get brave enough to try sewing on buttons with my sewing machine.  Now I wonder why I waited so long!  Sewing with a needle and thread always took forever and cramped my hands up.  Once I found out how easy it is, I went out and bought a special foot for my machine, but you can do it without that and I'll tell you how later.

The first thing you need to do is position your buttons.  I pinned the placket together in between where the buttons would go to keep it in place, then dabbed glue stick on the backs of the buttons and placed them on the placket.  Don't worry about the glue - it won't clog up your needle.  By the time you take it to your sewing machine, the glue will be mostly dry.

Now it's time to sew the buttons on.  My machine has a stitch for sewing on buttons, but if yours doesn't, I'll tell you how to get around that, too!

I place the buttons under the foot roughly positioned and drop the foot to hold it in place.  My buttons have 4 holes and I like to do them diagonally.  I put the needle in the left-most hole and then turn the wheel by hand to make sure it's going to slip easily into the right-most hole and when I'm sure I have the button positioned properly, I let the machine do the work.  I do each button once to hold it in place.  

After trimming the loose threads, I turn the front piece around and do the other set of holes.  Each button is now sewn in place with an X of thread.

And to seal the deal, I dab the back of the stitching with Fray Stop to make sure the buttons stay in place.

Now if you don't have a button foot or a button stitch, you can still sew buttons on with your sewing machine as long as it has a zig zag stitch.

Take the foot off your machine.  Put the button roughly in place and drop the post right on it.  You will need to adjust the position a bit.  

Now turn off your feed dogs and set your machine to zig zag.  You want the stitch length as short as you can do it - like 0.

Lower the needle almost to your button and adjust the width of the zig zag stitch so that the needle will go easily into both holes - turn the wheel by hand.

I do about 3 or 4 stitches for each set of holes.  You can tie off the threads at the back and trim them.  And this is where I like to fix them with a drop if Fray Stop.

The placket neckband and row of buttons really finished the Breckenridge Henley. I love that there's a beautiful V and it's not too low.  The sleeve lengths give me plenty of options to change the look up and I love that I can make it tunic and dress length as well as shirt length.  

You can get this pattern through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Breckenridge Henley - sizes XS to 5XL

Vanguard Kit To The Rescue - Again!

My grandson is currently going through a stage in which he insists on wearing short sleeved shirts and shorts - and it's winter!  He's deep into mountain biking and I've made him pants that he will actually wear - the Moto Maxx pants with knee reinforcement, made in Discovery Trekking Outfitters' scuba.  He loves the fabric and the sporty look and now has two pairs of them to keep him happy - and warm!

Moto Maxx pants in black and grey scuba

But shirts are a problem.  His favourite shirt is a short sleeved one I made him to match shirts I made for his father's team.  I used Discovery Trekking's Polartec Delta and my grandson loves it. 

That's my grandson on the left.

Now he wants plain shirts and prefers athletic material.  He agreed that he'd wear a long-sleeved Vanguard shirt if it was made with that fabric - with some jazz added!  And of course, he wasn't interested in any of the amazing colour blocking options this pattern has - he wanted spiral stripes down the arms!

I did a test sample in the fabric to see if it would work first.  Always test a new idea!  And it did work, so now to make the shirt.

I had quite a bit of the grey Polartec Delta, but not much of the apple green, so I decided on stripes for the arms and neckband, but to leave the sleeves uncuffed so I added 2" to the sleeve length.  I wanted the green just to be an accent.  Polartec Delta is an amazing fabric - it wicks moisture away from the body but keeps you cool and prevents smelly bacteria odors.  Perfect for my hot-bodied grandson.

I cut out all my pieces, then planned how I'd put the stripes on the sleeves and measured to see how long the stripes needed to be.  And bravely decided on two stripes per sleeve!

I cut the stripes .5" wide

I tried the stripes out on the sleeve to see how it would look.

I marked the stripe ends with pins and drew a line on each sleeve for the first stripe.

Then I applied glue to the back of the first stripes and gently laid them in place just over the line to hide it, being careful not to stretch them.

Once the first stripes were in place, I drew another line .5" away for the second stripe.

When both stripes were in place and glued down, I pinned for extra security and moved to my coverstitch machine.  The coverstitch is a stretchy stitch.  A long straight stitch might work if you don't have a coverstitch machine, as long as you stretched the fabric slightly as you sewed but it might not be that easy to do with such narrow strips of fabric.  Perhaps a zig zag would be better.

It probably would have made my job easier if I'd threaded with a matching thread, but I decided to go for contrast, so it was important to be as accurate within the stripe as possible.  You achieve this by concentrating on the front of the foot.  Don't look at the needles as you'll stray for sure!  Concentrate on the front of the foot.

My coverstitching wasn't perfect, but on a spiral stripe it will be hard to pick out the imperfections!  I gave the stripes a quick steam press and then it was just just constructing the shirt.  And the Vanguard is such a quick sew!  In no time, I had my grandson's shirt ready for him.

The Vanguard Kit is an amazing pattern and probably the children's pattern that I use the most.  It will work for girls as well as boys and has so many options in it that each shirt is a unique one.  If you don't already have this pattern (or the Moto Maxx) you can get them through my affiliate links below.

Love Notions Vanguard Kit Sizes 2T - 14

Love Notions Moto Maxx Set Sizes 2T - 14

Serging a Vented Seam

If you have a serger, you kinda want to use it everywhere!  You get such a neat, tidy seam, it's a shame not to be able to use it all the time.  Side seams with a vent had me stumped for a long time!  Sure you can stitch that seam with your sewing machine but I really want to have that seam finished with my serger!

Then Tami Meyer of Love Notions Patterns posted how to do it on Instagram!  Lightning bolts!  So that's how you do it!  So now I'm sharing it with you.

Straight stitch a couple of inches first

I took my pattern pieces to my sewing machine and straight stitched about 3 inches down to the stopping point in the vent.  Reverse a couple of stitches to secure the end of the stitching line.

Snip to the stitching line

Next I cut to the stitching line using the top of the vent as my guide.  Then I took it to my serger.

Serge the seam

Serge down the seam to near the bottom.  Fold the vent back so you don't catch it as you serge off the seam.  You can see in the above picture how I veered off, but the seam line is intact to the point.

Press the seam open

Steam press the seamline, with the seam going to the back side of your garment and the vents pressed open.

Now you're ready to hem.  I like to mitre my corners and show how on my post on the Game Day Jersey.  

If you have a coverstitch and would like to use that on your hem, here's a link to my blog post on coverstitching corners

Constellation - and a Tip or Two

Pattern:  Love Notions Constellation
Skill Level:  Confident Beginner
Fabric: Brushed French terry and cotton/spandex from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills:  Installing a zipper and reducing bulk in a hem.

The newest star of Love Notions is the Constellation.  This is the grownup version of the children's Navigator and one that will find a place in everyone's closet.  As usual with Love Notions patterns - options!  Do you want a hoodie or would you prefer a collar?  How about the hem - a fold-over on a curved hem or would you rather have a band?  It also lends itself beautifully to colour blocking!  While it does need to be made from fabric with at least 25% stretch, you can make it as light (cotton/spandex) or as heavy (sweatshirt fleece) as you want!  There's something here for everyone!

One of the things that really sets this pattern apart from other pullovers is the finish - no raw seams in evidence here!  Instead, a bias binding finish on the neck raises this to a professional look.  In fact, you'll want to show it off!

The Zipper

The zipper is such an easy install and as with so many Love Notions patterns, there are videos to help you - one for the zipper and another for the bias binding - that take all the mystery out of these steps.  I'm going to show you a trick I learned from a school chum of mine who is now a top-notch sewing instructor.  The way to make zippers behave is to use double-sided washable basting tape!

Once the outside piece of the collar has been attached to the body, you're ready to do the zipper.  Instead of using pins, I attach the first side of the zipper with double-sided washable basting tape.  I run the tape right down the edge of one side, trim at the bottom and then remove the paper topping.

Now I place one side of the zipper - just as the video shows - but instead of using pins, the tape holds everything securely in place.

Then I simply take it to my sewing machine, and with the zipper foot in place, I stitch right down this side of the zipper.

The other side of the zipper needs a little more care.  Again - watch the video to see how Kelly shows you how to make sure that your neck seam will match.  I pin that little bit and check to make sure my seams match.  When I'm sure that I have it in the right spot, I machine baste that small section and then put basting tape in all the rest and stitch on my sewing machine.  And just like that, you're done with the trickiest part of the sew!

The Bias Binding

Just a small hint for you here.  I love this finish so much that I make my own bias binding!  After I've stitched it to the inside collar piece, I trim just a hair off the edge of the seam so that it will fold over easily.

The Curved Hem

A curved hem is really not that difficult.  I use lots of pins to secure it in place.  You can see that the curve creates lots of bulges in the hem.  So now I bring on the iron.  I steam press the hem on the inside of the garment.  I just press down with the iron and that seems to shrink the fabric just a little.  With all the pinning, if there are any tucks created, they will be tiny.

And as you can see, I now have a nice flat surface for stitching.

The front of the Constellation poses another possible challenge.  The kangaroo pocket means you have a double layer of fabric which could result in a bulky hem that sticks out.  And there's a way to get around that.  After I've pressed the front portion of the pullover hem, I then take out the pins, and using the pressed fold of the pocket lining as my guide, I trim off 1" of fabric.  Then I fold the hem back in place and press it again.

Now I have a much less bulky hem to take to my coverstitch machine that will hang properly when I wear it.

I can see that I'll be making more of the Constellation Pullover.  Its options and the fabric I use will let me make each one a unique garment that I know I'll be getting lots of wear from.  If you don't already have this terrific pattern, you can get it through my affiliate link below

Love Notions Constellation Pullover

Mummy & Me Terra Tunics

Patterns - Love Notions Terra Tunic and Prisma Dress
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Mottled French Terry in purple from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - adapting a pattern

I'm a sucker for my grandchildren - they are such fun to sew for!  And they have definite ideas about what they want me to make.  Recently, my granddaughter asked me to make Mummy & Me outfits for her and her mother.

I could have gone the easy route and made them both Laundry Day Tees because that pattern comes in both women's and girls' sizes.  But I knew my daughter-in-law particularly liked boatneck tops.  The Terra Tunic with its many neckline options was going to be perfect.

It has a lovely boatneck finished with buttons.

The tunic length is very flattering with its split hem, the back a little longer than the front.  My problem was that there was no equivalent pattern for girls.  Aha!  But the Prisma might just work!  It has a boatneck option.

The A-line version could be shortened to tunic length and then the hem would be easy enough to copy!  I printed off both patterns and taped them.  I drew a hemline that would be tunic length on the Prisma back piece and then copied the profile of the Terra for the split hem.  If you click on the picture below, you'll see adaptations I made.

Then I cut the pattern piece out.  I traced the new profile onto the front piece, but cut the hem 1" shorter.

That's it!  I followed the instructions for sewing from the tutorials, but when I got to the split hemline, I followed those instructions for both.  It was surprisingly simple - from printing the pattern to finishing both garments took just a morning of my time.  And apparently the Mummy and Me tunics are a big hit!

If you don't already have these patterns, you can get them from my affiliate links below.

Love Notions Terra Tunic

Love Notions Prisma Dress

Sewing for the Christmas Bazaar

Right off, I have to warn you - we're not talking big bazaars here.  I live on a tiny island with a year-round population of about 350 souls so our Christmas Bazaar is pretty small, too.  Google Thetis Island and you'll see what I mean - I think we have 9 miles of roads!  This was my second Christmas Bazaar, although I do take part in our little summer markets. My stall was all children's wear so I'd like to tell you how I prepared for our Christmas Bazaar.

Know your Clientele

While the summer markets see a lot of summer holidayers and boaters, the Christmas Bazaar caters mainly to islanders and there are a lot of doting grannies and aunties!  I make special things for the Christmas Bazaar.  Grannies aren't looking for run-of-the mill clothes they can buy anywhere - they want something unusual!  I do have some basic things for my stall, but I also have a number of things made with amazing panels from the Netherlands imported by l'oiseau fabrics in Calgary, Canada.  You won't find these clothes anywhere else!

Here's a tunic I made using the L'il LDT pattern.

The back side is just as adorable.  The L'il LDT was just perfect for this panel with the width displaying the beautiful features of the pattern.

Grannies just love dresses for girls and the Prisma Dress in the A-Line option is perfect for those longer panels.

Again - just as amazing on the back!

Keep it Simple

You don't need to make extra work for yourself - choose basic patterns.  Some of my favourites for girls are:    L'il LDT   Prisma Dress    Sloane Sweater.  For boys, Vanguard Kit can be adapted so many ways - and I've used it for girls, too.

This shirt is from the Vanguard Kit.

These panels were huge - about 60" wide and almost a yard and a quarter long with enough to get the front and back for this size 7 shirt.

Little guys can have panels, too - here's a size 2 Vanguard Tee that uses the colour blocked sleeves to bring in the details of the panel.

It doesn't have to be a panel to make an amazing garment.  Here is the Sloane Sweater for Girls in a hooded shirt using a cosy jacquard knit to make it special.

And the versatile Sloane produced this yoked shirt - using remnants I had on hand.  Take a close look at the navy and white pattern - it's all sewing supplies!

Be Economical with your Fabric

I tend to be a scrap hoarder and keep bits that I think someday might be useable - I can't bear to throw away those gorgeous fabrics!  Again, Vanguard Kit to the rescue!

This wonderful digital print is no longer available and the Vanguard Kit's tee with its colour blocking was the perfect pattern to make use of the scraps.

Take Care of the Details

You are sewing for customers, so things need to be right.  Make your hems precise, neckbands just right, finish the seams properly.

With the foxes shirt, I machine-basted the colour blocked bits of the sleeve before I took it to the serger to make sure that the seams matched.

Just a little extra step, but it makes all the difference.

The end result is a shirt you're proud to have on your stall!

Prepare to Have Fun!

I had a great time - sold everything pictured above plus others and got several commissions.

Christmas Bazaars (and summer markets!) are lots of fun - it's a chance to catch up with neighbours and friends, gossip with other stallholders and just enjoy yourself - so make sure you do!  And if you sell some stuff - great.  You now have money to buy more fabric!

You can get these patterns through my affiliate links below if you don't already have them in your collection:

L'il LDT for Girls 2T -16
Sloane Sweater 
Prima Dress
Vanguard Kit 2T - 14

And be sure to check out all the creative bloggers taking part in the tour for ideas to help with your own Christmas preparations:

Monday: Handmade Boy The Wholesome Mama Four seasons and a Roadtrip Sew Shelly Sew

Tuesday: Third Shift Creations Handcrafted by RED All Things Katy!

Wednesday: My Heart Will Sew On Ma Moose Seamly Behaviour

Thursday: Sprouting JubeJube Very Blissful Sew Like a Sloth SewSophieLynn

Friday: Back40life Sewing Curves Princesse et trésors Ruby Rue Creations