Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - l'oiseau cotton spandex
Skills - directional fabric with cuffs
This blog post is more for me than it is for anyone else who happens to read it! I struggle every time I have to make cuffs with a directional fabric, so this time, I decided to document the process.
We have quite the baby explosion among our neighbours and friends here on our little island. I have to mention that most of the babies are arriving for grandparents, but I always make something for friends who are expecting a new family member. My favourite patterns for babies are based on what my daughter-in-law found most useful for her babies. She really liked a lapped neckline for the ease of getting over baby heads and the pants that had plenty of room for cloth-diapered bottoms. Peek-A-Boo Patterns has lots of patterns for babies and little children and they're generally my choice for the under-twos.
I like to combine patterned and plain fabrics when I make a baby outfit. If I used patterned for the top, I use plain for the bottom with patterned cuffs to match the top and plain on the neckbands so that the whole outfit ties together. And every time I make this outfit I always have to think several times on how to attach the cuffs and waistband!
I fold the cuffs and waistband right sides together and then pin quarters for the waistband and halves for the cuffs. I match them up with the quartered waist and halved leg bottoms. I found that having the waistband with the right side up pinned plus the right side up with the cuffs works. I never seem to be able to remember that, so I've made myself a little drawing for the next time.
Now a couple of little tips when making these tiny garments.
When attaching cuffs, I pin them so that the seam allowances face in opposite directions. This makes less bulk for stitching and also is less bulky when worn.
When attaching the cuffs, I have the cuffs on the outside. Then I slide the garment under the foot so that the cuff is on the bottom. This way I can stretch the cuffs while making sure I don't get tucks in the legs. I do this with my serger, but the process is the same if you're using a sewing machine.
When hemming I can fit even the tiniest sleeve under my machine's foot by turning the garment inside out and lowering the foot inside the sleeve. I do this with my coverstitch machine, but the process is the same for a sewing machine - just make sure that these tiny sleeves get hemmed with a stretchy stitch.
I now have my card pinned to the wall in my sewing machine so that next time I make an outfit with directional cuffs, I'll know exactly what to do!
Happy sewing!
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