Pattern - Love Notions Rhapsody & Dress
Skill Level - Intermediate
Fabric - Rayon challis from Fabricland
Skills - French seams, bias binding, burrito roll method
Pattern Links - French seams, burrito roll method, bias binding
My favourite pattern just got an upgrade! The new Rhapsody still has all the bonus features that the original Rhapsody had - the full bust piece and 8 sleeves options but now there's a dress option and the size range is more inclusive as well! So much in one little package! And for those who use a projector, there's a file for that, too.
The raw edge of the neckline is finished with bias binding (although you can skip that entirely if you want and just fold the edge under and stitch). You can definitely buy bias binding but if you make your own, you will guarantee a perfect match. Making your own is surprisingly easy and you can make more than enough from a 12" square. There are a couple of links in the pattern tutorial to bias binding articles, but I thought I'd go through the procedure I followed to make my 3/8" double-fold tape - step by step.
Making Your Own Bias Tape
First you start with a 12" square
Cut the square in half diagonally and pin the halfway points top and bottom
Lay one triangle on top of the other - right sides together - matching the centre pins
Now stitch them together on the pinned edge with a 1/4" seam
Press the seam open
Now take the fabric back to your cutting mat and lay it out with the top against a horizontal line. This helps ensure that your fabric doesn't distort. Draw lines 1.5" apart - you can use a pen or a pencil as you'll be cutting on those lines eventually. That's the width for 3/8" double fold tape. If you're making 1/4" double fold, the lines should be 1.25" apart. Trim off any excess fabric.
This next part is the only tricky part so take your time. With right sides together, match lines, but offset one strip. I usually start pinning in the middle and work my way to the edges. So you will have a one strip width sticking out each end.
Take it to your sewing machine and stitch a seam 1/4" from the edge. Press the seam open.
Now just start at one end and keep cutting following the line until you have one long strip of fabric cut on the bias.
Now you're ready to make the tape. If you're making 1/4" double fold you use a 12mm tape maker (or 1/2") and if you're making 3/8" double fold like I did you use an 18mm tape maker (or 3/4").
Insert one pointed edge of the strip in the tape maker with the right side down. As it feeds through, press with your iron.
You now have single fold tape. To get double fold tape, you just fold it over once more and press.
I store my finished tape on empty toilet rolls and store them in one of my sewing drawers. And once you know how to make your own bias tape from a small square of fabric, you'll never have to buy it again!
Securing the 3/4 Sleeve Cuff
And one more little thing. To keep the cuff where it's supposed to be I always do a "stitch in the ditch" on the seamline plus about 5 stitches at the opposite.
If your thread is a good match, no one will ever know it's there, but your cuff will stay folded up.
Now back to the Rhapsody! I chose a rayon challis border print to make mine. I cut my pieces to make maximum use of the print and even managed to get the back yoke and sleeve ends on the border print.
The Rhapsody is the perfect summer top - it's light and loose, just what you need for warm weather. If you already have the Rhapsody, the updated version is in your account on the Love Notions website. If you don't have it yet, you can get it through my affiliate link below.
