Mummy & Me Terra Tunics

Patterns - Love Notions Terra Tunic and Prisma Dress
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Mottled French Terry in purple from l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - adapting a pattern

I'm a sucker for my grandchildren - they are such fun to sew for!  And they have definite ideas about what they want me to make.  Recently, my granddaughter asked me to make Mummy & Me outfits for her and her mother.

I could have gone the easy route and made them both Laundry Day Tees because that pattern comes in both women's and girls' sizes.  But I knew my daughter-in-law particularly liked boatneck tops.  The Terra Tunic with its many neckline options was going to be perfect.

It has a lovely boatneck finished with buttons.

The tunic length is very flattering with its split hem, the back a little longer than the front.  My problem was that there was no equivalent pattern for girls.  Aha!  But the Prisma might just work!  It has a boatneck option.

The A-line version could be shortened to tunic length and then the hem would be easy enough to copy!  I printed off both patterns and taped them.  I drew a hemline that would be tunic length on the Prisma back piece and then copied the profile of the Terra for the split hem.  If you click on the picture below, you'll see adaptations I made.

Then I cut the pattern piece out.  I traced the new profile onto the front piece, but cut the hem 1" shorter.

That's it!  I followed the instructions for sewing from the tutorials, but when I got to the split hemline, I followed those instructions for both.  It was surprisingly simple - from printing the pattern to finishing both garments took just a morning of my time.  And apparently the Mummy and Me tunics are a big hit!

If you don't already have these patterns, you can get them from my affiliate links below.

Love Notions Terra Tunic

Love Notions Prisma Dress

Hey Presto!

Pattern - Love Notions Presto Tunic
Skill Level - Intermediate
Fabric - rayon challis from Fabricland
Skills - topstitching, buttons and buttonholes

Spring is just around the corner, isn't it?  Well, we need to work on the spring wardrobe, then.  And Love Notions has just the thing - the Presto Tunic!  Made from a light woven, Presto has the usual multiple options - 4 sleeve lengths and a choice of mandarin collar or a bias-bound neckline.  The loose body has darts at the front and optional shaping darts for the back.  And, of course, it has a full bust option for people like me - how I love that full bust option!

The pattern's tutorial is detailed and well-illustrated as we've come to expect and in addition, two video links help you with the trickier aspects - the inset panel and the split hem.  Therefore, in this post, I'll concentrate on the topstitching, buttons and buttonholes.

Buttonholes seem to worry quite a number of people, and they really aren't that difficult.  If you're in the market for a new sewing machine, make sure you get one that has one-step buttonholes.  It's an option that nearly all modern sewing machines have these days.


Before you can do the buttonholes, the panel must be readied.  The tutorial instructions will walk you through this.  One tip I'd pass along is that when topstitching the placket in the panel, do all your stitching in the same direction. (Click on the pictures to see them in more detail.)

My sewing machine's foot has red dots at the 1/8" mark to help with topstitching.  By keeping that dot on the edge I get sharp, even lines.  I do my first line of stitching on the side away from the seam with pins holding the placket in place.

Then I topstitch the seam edge.  With all stitching going in the same direction, I lessen the chances of distortion with the light fabric I used.  Topstitching done, I'm now ready for the buttonholes.

The buttonholes will be on the shirt's right side of the panel, so I place the buttonhole guide next to that placket.  If you're in any confusion which side that is, just make your pieces mirror those in the tutorial. I mark the bottom of each buttonhole with a pin as this is where my machine will start.  Then I take the placket piece to my sewing machine and stitch the buttonholes.  Now we're ready for buttons!  And you can do that with your sewing machine, too!

First, I place the two pieces of the panel beside each other so that I know exactly where the buttons will go.  I use a glue stick for this step and dab a bit of glue on the back of each button before positioning it on the left panel placket.  The glue will be dry by the time I stitch and won't hurt the machine's needle at all.  And just a note - I regularly check out my local thrift store for buttons - which is where I bought these ones for a whole 30 cents!

Buttons in place, I'm ready to machine stitch them on.  I have a button foot and my machine has a special stitch for that but don't worry if yours doesn't - I tell you how to get around this later.  I lower the needle into the first hole (I go diagonally across the holes as these buttons have 4 holes), then when I think I have the button properly placed, I lower the foot.

I always do the first couple of stitches manually to make sure that the button is in the right spot, then let the machine do the rest.  I do all of one diagonal side first and trim off all the threads.

Then I flip the piece to do the other diagonal side, trim the threads and I'm done.  Takes all of a minute or two!

And once you've had a taste of letting the machine do the work, you'll never go back to hand-sewing buttons again!

Don't have a button foot?  Your machine doesn't have a special button stitch? No problem.  Take the foot off your sewing machine.  Set your machine to zig zag with the shortest stitch length you can - like 0!  Adjust the width of the zig zag until it's the right width for your button holes.  Turn off the feed dogs.  Lower the needle into one of the button's holes and then lower the post of your machine's presser foot onto the button.  Hand wheel the first stitch or two.  Then zig zag some stitches - about 6 or 8.  That's it!

Once the panel is sewn in place - and remember there's a video to help you with this step - it's clear sailing until you get to the hem - and there's a video for that, too!

Warm weather is on the way - treat yourself to a Presto or two.  You can get the pattern through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Presto Tunic

Melt In Your Mouth Shortbread Cookies

Okay - what is a recipe doing in a sewing blog???  Well, there is a reason!

I was making shortbread cookies as one of the goodies to serve at a meeting we were going to host.  These cookies are perfect because you can make them up long in advance and then bake when you have time.

It was as I was cutting one of the logs into discs that I suddenly realized that it looked as if I was cutting them exactly 3/8" wide which just happens to be the seam allowance of my favourite pattern company - Love Notions!  Of course I had to get a seam gauge to verify - and - yup - they were 3/8" wide!

Okay - so what's the recipe!  So quick and simple - especially if you have a stand mixer.

Melt In Your Mouth Shortbread Cookies

2 cups butter softened
1 cup granulated sugar
3 1/4 cups flour
1/2 cup cornstarch

Cream the butter  in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until very light in texture - about 5 minutes.

Add the sugar and continue beating until the sugar is completely combined - about 2 to 3 minutes.

Combine the flour and cornstarch in a separate bowl and add to the butter mixture, mixing on low speed until just combined.

Divide the dough into 4 portions, roll into logs and wrap with plastic.  Refrigerate - or freeze - until ready to use.

When you're ready to bake, preheat the oven to 300F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Slice the log into rounds (obviously mine are 3/8" wide, but you can do yours however thick you like them!) and place on the cookie sheet about 2" apart.  Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the bottoms are lightly golden, then cool on wire racks.

The original recipe called for placing spoonfuls of the dough on the parchment and flattening them, but I prefer to make logs because then I can bake a few cookies whenever I want.  Logs store beautifully in the freezer or fridge and if company comes, I can quickly whip up a batch of cookies - perfect for someone who seems to be a little obsessed with sewing these days!

La Bella Donna goes to the Hospital

Pattern - Girls La Bella Donna Top & Tunic 2T - 16

Skill Level - Beginner

Fabric - l'oiseau fabrics

Skills - working with panels, snap tape

A friend whose granddaughter is undergoing cancer treatment asked me to make a special gown for the little girl to wear – something that would help lift her spirits.  I had exactly the right knit panel from l’oiseau fabrics on hand – flowers, cherubs, fawns – all things that Nana and granddaughter found special. 

Nana said that it must be easy to put on and take off.  It must be accessible for IV.  It must be loose enough for comfort, but not fall off her shoulders.  After some consultation with fellow sewist, Eleri Kieran, we decided that La Bella Donna was the perfect pattern.

I cut two fronts from the pattern (so that the gown could be worn with the open side wherever it was needed) and serged one shoulder and side seam.  Snap tape would secure the other shoulder and side seam.  I didn’t bother with the sleeve band as the idea was to keep the gown as simple as possible.

To prepare the open side for the tape, I folded back the sleeve and bottom hems and stitched them in place with my sewing machine. 

I applied the snap tape with the holes first.  I lined it up with the edge of the fabric and stitched it in place using a zipper foot stitching both sides of the tape.

I pinned the matching tape in place and stitched it just on the edge, then folded it under and stitched it down.  This hides the tape away.

A little tidying away of stray threads and trimming of raw edges and it was done.  This encourages me to think that whatever the obstacles, comfortable and beautiful clothing can be made for any situation.  And perhaps Nana’s sweet panel choice will provide a tiny bit more help for a little girl to beat back cancer.

If you don't already have this quick and easy pattern for girls, you can get it through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Girls La Bella Donna Top and Tunic 2T - 16

Trendy Tunic for Girls - New Options!

Pattern - Love Notions Trendy Tunic for Girls
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - seam matching

When Tami from Love Notions announced that she was going to re-vist the Trendy Tunic for Girls to add more sizes and options, I was right onboard!  My daughter-in-law has told me it's one of her favourite tops for her daughter.  I definitely wanted to make more!

The Trendy Tunic is a shirt that has built-in fabric blocking and that means that you can use those precious scraps you've been loath to throw away.  It has pockets - yay for pockets!  There are options for short dolman sleeves and inset 3/4 and long sleeves.  The updated pattern now gives you a hood and a cowl.  Now isn't this just typical Love Notions - options galore!

The sewing itself is straight forward and as usual with Love Notions patterns, if there's anything at all tricky involved, there is extra assistance to help you and this pattern is no exception - there's a video to help with the pockets.

The pattern was perfect for a l'oiseau fabrics remnant I'd been sitting on for some time.  This unique border print was only 52 cm long and the only thing I'd been able to think of before was a gathered skirt - but that wouldn't show off the Amsterdam street scene.  Hooray for the Trendy Tunic which was exactly right to display the border!  And I had scraps of the perfect turquoise cotton/spandex for the accent pieces.

But I'd like to share something I've learned to help make that seam matching go a little easier!  I have struggled with matching seams in the past - my serger wants to push the top piece of fabric past the bottom fabric.

So now what I do is match those seams and put a pin in right away.  I run a basting stitch in just that portion of the seam on the 3/8" seam line.

Then I take it to the serger and serge as usual.

The seam is perfect!  And just what you need when you have a super pattern like the Trendy Tunic which has seam matching for the shoulders and the sides.

So now my granddaughter has a couple of new Trendy Tunics and I have plans for more!  If you already have the pattern, you can download the updated version from your account on the Love Notions website.  If you don't already have this pattern, you can get it through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Trendy Tunic for Girls sizes 2T - 16

Panels and Borders and Patterns - oh my!

Patterns - multiple Love Notions patterns - links at the bottom of the page
Fabric - l'oiseau fabrics
Skills - working with panels and borders

It will come as a surprise to no one who knows me that I'm a little obsessed with panel and border fabrics!  This is probably an extension of my love of all kinds of puzzles, and hence my "handle" of puzzlnut!  I love a challenge and getting the most out of a beautiful panel or border is an exciting one.

Love Notions has lots of patterns that are tailor made for panels - and l'oiseau fabrics has the panels and border prints to perfectly complement them.  Let's looks at a few patterns first and then we'll talk about making the most of those panels.

Some panels are small enough to get a perfect little shirt and the L'il LDT in size 5 is wonderful for displaying all of the components that this zebra panel had and still leave large scraps for other projects.

Sometimes a panel must be pieced so you can get the whole project out of one panel.  This amazing bear and rabbit panel was picked by my grandson to make him a hoodie.  This particular panel was big - as in about 60" x a yard and a quarter!

The Vanguard Kit has options for colour blocking that allowed me to get a size 7 hoodie by taking advantage of the sleeve options.  I was even able to squeeze lining for the hood from the panel! I'm told it's my grandson's favourite shirt!

You can even make alterations to a pattern to get the most out of your panel.  I extended the Hazelwood Hoodie to a dress length to get the most out of the panel my granddaughter picked out.  Don't be fooled by her serious expression - she loves the hooded dress!

The picture at the top of the page is a beautiful border print which is no longer carried.  The Terra Tunic, with the mini alteration of making the front and back pieces the same length, worked perfectly to display the panel and give me a unique garment that always gets me compliments.

I used the Terra Tunic recently to make a shirt for my daughter who loves fantasy fiction.  I did cheat a bit as I had scraps left from making a shirt for an order which allowed me to get 3/4 sleeves.  I could have gotten short sleeves without it and still make the XXL shirt from the Terra Tunic pattern.

Here's the front.

And the back.

And then there's the La Bella Donna - with a few alterations it was perfect for this border print.  I evened the hem and put in a scoop neck - just because I like a scoop neck.  I also cut the sleeve cuffs from the border print.  This shirt is definitely one of my favourites to wear!

If there's not quite enough fabric to complete the garment, you have to find something that will echo colours in the panel  I used the Rockford Raglan to make this shirt for my daughter-in-law.

My original thought was red sleeves and neckband to echo the red in the umbrella, but my daughter-in-law preferred grey and I must say I agree with her choice as it doesn't detract from the panel.

Another pattern that is perfect for border prints and panels is the Prisma and it's what I used for this size 10 dress for a customer.  I'll use it to demonstrate how to get the most out of your panel.

The Prisma was perfect for this particular panel as it allowed me to get the front and back of the dress from the long tree/donkey pieces.

The first thing you need to do is to find the visual centre of the piece you're going to cut.

For me, the visual centre was right at the edge of the donkey's hat.

Now fold the fabric evenly along that line and see if your pattern piece will fit.

And the narrow a-line profile of the Prisma fit perfectly!

I've shown you a few patterns and how they worked with panels and I list them below, but there are more  You can click on any of my affiliate links below to get these patterns if you don't already have them.  And if you're looking for amazing panels, check out l'oiseau fabrics as they have a wonderful selection! A great pattern paired with a great panel, add a little imagination and you've got a unique one-of-a-kind garment.  Give it a try!

Love Notions Terra Tunic
Love Notions Rockford Raglan for Ladies
Love Notions La Bella Donna Top & Tunic
Love Notions Vanguard Kit
Love Notions L'il LDT for Girls
Love Notions Prisma Dress
Love Notions Hazelwood Hoodie