Seamly Behaviour: Forte and Chitosante for summer comfort

Wednesday, 10 June 2020

Forte and Chitosante for summer comfort

Pattern - Love Notions Forte Top & Dress
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Discovery Fabrics' Chitosante Interlock
Skills - personal adjustments, markings, finishing seams when not hemming

Now that the warmth of summer is approaching, I needed a top that would provide coverage from the sun as well as keeping me cool - it's a tall order! But with the right pattern and the right fabric I knew I could do it. (To see a picture in more detail, simply click on it.)

First of all, the fabric. I had 2 metres of an amazing fabric from Discovery Fabrics called Chitosante Interlock. You may not have heard of this before, but the properties are mind-blowing! It's a polyester fabric made with chitosan, which is biomass from crab or shrimp shells combined with textile fibres. It's antibacterial, odor-resisting, moisture-wicking, breathable, fast-drying, pill resistant and as if that wasn't enough, has UPF 50. I'm not sure you could ask for anything more in a fabric! It's also light as air and doesn't curl (psst - no hemming needed!)

And as for the pattern, I'd already made a few Love Notions' Forte Tops - view B - which is fitted on the bust, but loose and airy below. And it's a sure sign that you love a pattern when you already have several hanging in the closet and are prepared to make more! It's one of my favourite patterns.

I also knew that there would need to be a few adjustments made to the pattern to fit my unique body. I am 5'8" tall and usually have to add to allow for my height.

I have to put some of that addition above the bustline so that my full bustline matches the pattern's. This is especially important for the Forte View B so that the seamline is below the fullness of the bust. The last thing I want at my age is to look pregnant! So I add 1.5" above the bustline.

I also need another inch for my height, so I add that to the skirt part.

Having added 2.5" to the front, I now needed to add the same amount to the back and I distributed it in 2 spots, just as I did for the front.

This taken care of, I now had to decide on the sleeve. I love the bell sleeve - it's so classy looking - but for everyday wear, I needed something a little shorter. I decided to make the bell 8.5" long, but I would need more flare.

I slashed into the shortened bell 3 times, spread the pieces 1" apart at the ends and taped them in place. I would add this to the sleeve cut on the bell line so that the end of the sleeve would fall below my elbow.

Pattern adjustments made, I was ready to cut and sew! But I always have to throw in a few tips, don't I!

Marking

Transferring pattern marks is so important! I use multi-coloured quilting pins and designate a certain colour for each marking to make sure I'm putting the pattern together correctly.

For sleeves, I use yellow for the shoulder seam, white for the front marking and the green pin goes right between the 2 marks for the back. I use those same coloured pins for the armscye of the bodice. I used orange pins for the skirt and bodice marks and made a mental note which side of the skirt was the side seam - so easy to get mixed up if you don't take care!

When Not Hemming

My Chitosante Interlock doesn't have a curl and because it's so light, I decided not to hem the sleeves or bottom. I needed, however, to make sure that the ends of the seam were secure.

Both seams were serged, so I threaded the serger tail back through the seam and finished it off with a dab of Fray Stop.

I love my new Forte made with Chitosante Interlock - it's like wearing thistledown! I know that I'll be comfortable and protected through whatever summer decides to throw at me. If you'd like to check out this amazing fabric and the wonderful pattern I made it in, there are affiliate links below.