Help Is On The Way!!!

I'm an administrator on the Love Notions Pattern Support page on Facebook and we often get requests for help from members new to sewing.  Love Notions has a team of administrators standing by to give help with the Love Notions patterns but there's a ton of information on the Love Notions website itself.  The menu bar on the Love Notions home page will give you links to so many helpful blog posts and articles

The Help Menu

This is where you'll find basic help.

Here you'll find information on log in problems, how to download and print your patterns, how to use the amazing layers function - things like that.

The Blog Menu

This has links to all the blog posts on Love Notions patterns and you can even search for blog posts on a specific pattern.

Maybe we've even done a sewalong on a pattern you're interested in or need help with - all of the sewalongs are linked on this page.

Resources

Then there's the Extras menu.

There's a wealth of information here but I'm going to talk about the Resources link in the Extras menu.

If you're not sure where to take your measurements, there's  a link here to a page you can download.  It shows you exactly where to take your measurements, and if you print it off, you can keep your measurements on the diagram.

There are links to articles on fitting, blending sizes, making alterations to patterns to fit your unique body, techniques such as changing necklines, and a host of other helpful items.

And then there are links to hacks and techniques.  Want to do a cold shoulder on a shirt?  Add a zipper to a pocket? Add a hood to a pattern that doesn't have that option?  You'll find instructions here.

And finally, there's the handy sewing techniques.  Here you'll find articles on sewing neckbands, how to sew in sleeves, hemming, buttons and buttonholes and so much more.  There's also pattern-specific help such as sewing the Trendy Tunic and Whistler pockets and how to do the burrito roll in the Cadence pattern.

And if you don't find the help you need through the website, ask in the Facebook group.  Tami Meyer has a whole team of people standing by to help you solve your problem so that you can wear your lovely new make!

Vanguard! For a Biking Shirt!

Pattern - Love Notions Vanguard Kit long sleeve tee
Skill Level - confident beginner
Fabric - Discovery Fabrics Polartec Delta
Skills - Colour blocking

My grandson is turning 9 in a few weeks.   For part of his present, he said he wanted a biking shirt with padded elbows.  I knew that I couldn't possibly make something that would give him proper protection, but my son assured me that what he really wanted was a shirt with a moto look.

- like the Moto Maxx pants I'd made him the previous year.  Okay - that I can do! (Click on any picture to see it in more detail.)

The Fabric

I had the perfect fabric on hand.  He loves athletic fabrics and Discovery Fabrics specializes in athletic fabrics.  I had 3 colours of Polartec Delta sitting on the shelves - marine blue, apple green and grey - and decided to use them all.

Polartec Delta is a wonderful fabric and I had previously used it to make competition shirts for my son and his training partner.

It's highly breathable, has superior wicking properties, regulated drying, reduced clinging, odor control and is highly durable.  You can see from the picture above that it's also constructed to pull moisture away from your body. Just what my hot-bodied grandson needs.

The Pattern

The Vanguard Kit is one of my most-used patterns.

There are all kinds of options built right in - even colour blocking.  But the colour blocking I had in mind, I was going to have to figure out myself.

Colour Blocking

I drew up and coloured a design of what I had in mind and then printed off and cut out the plain fronted shirt with long sleeves.

Then I drew lines on the pattern pieces and wrote the colour on each section also making a note of where I would have to add 3/8" for seam allowance.  I cut double the middle grey sleeve sections, because it was going to have moto stitching on it.  That was going to be the padded portion.

After cutting the colour block sections, I placed each colour with its fabric.  I was ready to cut out.

I didn't add a seam allowance as all my lines were going to be straight.  I used my ruler as the guide to add the seam allowance.

You can see on this piece that the seam allowances are all there.

Sewing

I worked on the front first.

I laid all the pieces out in order and working from the bottom up, pressing the seam allowance up (and I used a pressing cloth so the fabric wasn't damaged) and topstitched as I went.  The diagonal blue section was added last and topstitched.

Then on to the sleeves.

I laid them out just as I did with the front with the grey section being two layers, pressing the seams up and topstitching.

For the moto stitching, I drew lines with tailor's chalk.

I stitched the lines on my coverstitch machine.  I could have used my regular sewing machine, but I wanted this section of the sleeve to have lots of stretch.  I used a notch on my foot as my guide in stitching.

So here is what the sleeve looks like front and back.

Now with all the piecing done, all I had to do was sew up the pieces, put on the neckband and hem.  Sounds like a lot of work, but it only took me a morning.  I know my grandson will love his new biking shirt.  He loves this fabric and he'll appreciate all the amazing properties which will keep him cool and dry while he's out on the mountain biking trails.  If you don't already have this pattern, you can get it from my affiliate link below.  And do check out Discovery Fabrics for all the amazing products they carry.

Love Notions Vanguard Kit
Discovery Fabrics

Forte and Chitosante for summer comfort

Pattern - Love Notions Forte Top & Dress
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Discovery Fabrics' Chitosante Interlock
Skills - personal adjustments, markings, finishing seams when not hemming

Now that the warmth of summer is approaching, I needed a top that would provide coverage from the sun as well as keeping me cool - it's a tall order!  But with the right pattern and the right fabric I knew I could do it. (To see a picture in more detail, simply click on it.)

First of all, the fabric.  I had 2 metres of an amazing fabric from Discovery Fabrics called Chitosante Interlock.  You may not have heard of this before, but the properties are mind-blowing!  It's a polyester fabric made with chitosan, which is biomass from crab or shrimp shells combined with textile fibres.  It's antibacterial, odor-resisting, moisture-wicking, breathable, fast-drying, pill resistant and as if that wasn't enough, has UPF 50.  I'm not sure you could ask for anything more in a fabric!  It's also light as air and doesn't curl (psst - no hemming needed!)

And as for the pattern, I'd already made a few Love Notions' Forte Tops - view B - which is fitted on the bust, but loose and airy below.  And it's a sure sign that you love a pattern when you already have several hanging in the closet and are prepared to make more!  It's one of my favourite patterns.

I also knew that there would need to be a few adjustments made to the pattern to fit my unique body.  I am 5'8" tall and usually have to add to allow for my height. 

I have to put some of that addition above the bustline so that my full bustline matches the pattern's.  This is especially important for the Forte View B so that the seamline is below the fullness of the bust.  The last thing I want at my age is to look pregnant!  So I add 1.5" above the bustline.

I also need another inch for my height, so I add that to the skirt part.

Having added 2.5" to the front, I now needed to add the same amount to the back and I distributed it in 2 spots, just as I did for the front.

This taken care of, I now had to decide on the sleeve.  I love the bell sleeve - it's so classy looking - but for everyday wear, I needed something a little shorter.  I decided to make the bell 8.5" long, but I would need more flare.

I slashed into the shortened bell 3 times, spread the pieces 1" apart at the ends and taped them in place.  I would add this to the sleeve cut on the bell line so that the end of the sleeve would fall below my elbow.

Pattern adjustments made, I was ready to cut and sew!  But I always have to throw in a few tips, don't I!

Marking

Transferring pattern marks is so important!  I use multi-coloured quilting pins and designate a certain colour for each marking to make sure I'm putting the pattern together correctly.

For sleeves, I use yellow for the shoulder seam, white for the front marking and the green pin goes right between the 2 marks for the back.  I use those same coloured pins for the armscye of the bodice.  I used orange pins for the skirt and bodice marks and made a mental note which side of the skirt was the side seam - so easy to get mixed up if you don't take care!

When Not Hemming

My Chitosante Interlock doesn't have a curl and because it's so light, I decided not to hem the sleeves or bottom.  I needed, however, to make sure that the ends of the seam were secure.

Both seams were serged, so I threaded the serger tail back through the seam and finished it off with a dab of Fray Stop.

I love my new Forte made with Chitosante Interlock - it's like wearing thistledown!  I know that I'll be comfortable and protected through whatever summer decides to throw at me.  If you'd like to check out this amazing fabric and the wonderful pattern I made it in, there are affiliate links below.

Discovery Fabrics - Specializing in technical and performance fabrics for outdoor and activewear.

Love Notions Forte Top and Dress - XS - 5XL

Rhapsody 2.0 - And Homemade Bias Binding

Pattern - Love Notions Rhapsody & Dress
Skill Level - Intermediate
Fabric - Rayon challis from Fabricland
Skills - French seams, bias binding, burrito roll method
Pattern Links - French seams, burrito roll method, bias binding

My favourite pattern just got an upgrade!  The new Rhapsody still has all the bonus features that the original Rhapsody had - the full bust piece and 8 sleeves options but now there's a dress option and the size range is more inclusive as well!  So much in one little package!  And for those who use a projector, there's a file for that, too.

The raw edge of the neckline is finished with bias binding (although you can skip that entirely if you want and just fold the edge under and stitch). You can definitely buy bias binding but if you make your own, you will guarantee a perfect match.  Making your own is surprisingly easy and you can make more than enough from a 12" square.  There are a couple of links in the pattern tutorial to bias binding articles, but I thought I'd go through the procedure I followed to make my 3/8" double-fold tape - step by step.

Making Your Own Bias Tape

First you start with a 12" square

Cut the square in half diagonally and pin the halfway points top and bottom

Lay one triangle on top of the other - right sides together - matching the centre pins

Now stitch them together on the pinned edge with a 1/4" seam

Press the seam open

Now take the fabric back to your cutting mat and lay it out with the top against a horizontal line.  This helps ensure that your fabric doesn't distort.  Draw lines 1.5" apart - you can use a pen or a pencil as you'll be cutting on those lines eventually.  That's the width for 3/8" double fold tape.  If you're making 1/4" double fold, the lines should be 1.25" apart.  Trim off any excess fabric.

This next part is the only tricky part so take your time.  With right sides together, match lines, but offset one strip.  I usually start pinning in the middle and work my way to the edges.  So you will have a one strip width sticking out each end.

Take it to your sewing machine and stitch a seam 1/4" from the edge.  Press the seam open.

Now just start at one end and keep cutting following the line until you have one long strip of fabric cut on the bias.

Now you're ready to make the tape.  If you're making 1/4" double fold you use a 12mm tape maker (or 1/2") and if you're making 3/8" double fold like I did you use an 18mm tape maker (or 3/4").

Insert one pointed edge of the strip in the tape maker with the right side down.  As it feeds through, press with your iron. 

You now have single fold tape.  To get double fold tape, you just fold it over once more and press.

I store my finished tape on empty toilet rolls and store them in one of my sewing drawers.  And once you know how to make your own bias tape from a small square of fabric, you'll never have to buy it again!

Securing the 3/4 Sleeve Cuff

And one more little thing.  To keep the cuff where it's supposed to be I always do a "stitch in the ditch" on the seamline plus about 5 stitches at the opposite. 

If your thread is a good match, no one will ever know it's there, but your cuff will stay folded up.

Now back to the Rhapsody!  I chose a rayon challis border print to make mine.  I cut my pieces to make maximum use of the print and even managed to get the back yoke and sleeve ends on the border print. 

The Rhapsody is the perfect summer top - it's light and loose, just what you need for warm weather.  If you already have the Rhapsody, the updated version is in your account on the Love Notions website.  If you don't have it yet, you can get it through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse & Dress sizes XS to 5XL

Love Notions' Vivace and Light Wovens

Pattern - Love Notions Vivace Dolman - XS - 5XL
Skill Level - Confident Beginner
Fabric - Rayon Challis from Fabricland
Skills - Working with interfacing

Love Notions' newest pattern is the Vivace (pronounced vee-VAH-chay) a loose fitting dolman shirt/tunic/dress that can be made from drapey knits and woven fabrics.  There are separate pattern pieces for each fabric type and it includes that wonderful full bust pattern piece.  As usual, Tami has visual help for you if you need it and there are 3 videos to walk you through attaching the collar.

I chose to make my shirt version from rayon challis, which is a lovely, light fabric but not necessarily the easiest to work with.  I've put together a few tips for handling rayon challis, but they work equally well with all loose, light fabrics whether knit or woven.

Interfacing the Collar Pieces

It's very easy for light fabrics to get out of shape and interfacing helps keep them stable.  I cut 2 pieces from the rayon challis and one from interfacing for each collar piece.

You can see that the back collar piece has definitely lost its shape compared to the interfacing!

However, with the interfacing on the bottom, I can easily nudge the fabric to match the interfacing and get it back into shape.  Then a quick press on top - flip it over and press on the interfacing side and I'm done.

Avoiding Tucks

When you're trying to stitch stabilized and un-stabilized pieces together, it's so hard to avoid tucks in the piece that hasn't been interfaced if you have it on top.  However, I've discovered a way around that.

When you stitch your two pieces together, put the un-interfaced fabric on the bottom.  Your sewing machine's feed dogs will pull that piece through.

Understitching

Now that the two pieces have been stitched together, before you can turn them right side out, you need to understitch.  Understitching performs two functions:  it makes the turning easier and it provides strength to the seam.  If you want to know more about understitching, I've done a blog post on it, To Understitch Or Not, which you can visit through the link.

Everyone has their favourite way of doing understitching, but I like have the seam showing.  I have the interfaced side on my left and the un-interfaced side on my right, with the seam folded to the right.  My hands hold the sides apart.  I run a line of stitching close to the seam line - about 1/8" from the stitching line.

Trimming the Seam.

Now that the understitching has been done, the seam needs handled so it will turn easily.  You can clip the seam, but I chose to trim it.

I hold the collar in my left hand, this time with the un-interfaced side up and the seam to be trimmed is easily accessible to the scissors as I trim the seam back.  I have applique scissors just for this process.  The curved blades prevent the scissors from accidentally clipping where they shouldn't!

Now the collar is easy to press open and the understitching keeps the underside of the collar to the back where it belongs.  A line of stitching across the bottom of the collar and I'm ready to install it in the garment!  There is an excellent video in the pattern's tutorial to help you with this process.

Finish Your Seams

Once the collar has been sewn in place you are left with an unfinished seam.  If you've used a woven fabric for your Vivace, there's always the possibility that the fabric can fray so seams need to be finished. 

If you have a serger, you can just run around the edge of the collar seam to finish the raw edges.  Your sewing machine will have stitches to perform this task - even a zig zag stitch will do.  After all your hard work, the last thing you want is for seams to fray apart - finish your seams.

The Vivace is a lovely loose pattern that will carry you through those summer months.  The dress version can also be used to make a comfortable nightgown.  And have you noticed that with a pocket added it would also make a super uniform top for health care workers?  This pattern is so versatile!  You can get it through my affiliate link below.

Love Notions Vivace Dolman